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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Dark red. Sexy aromas of redcurrant, smoke, mocha, espresso and tobacco, with darker berry notes emerging as the wine opens in the glass. Rich, lush and seamless but not yet filled in, with its berry flavors complicated by earth and herb elements. Not the last word in concentration, but this sexy Pauillac is sweet, shapely…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Deep, bright ruby-red. Sexy, ripe aromas of currant, black plum, raspberry, smoked meat, mocha, jasmine, black olive and earth. Smooth in texture but vinous and bright, with a penetrating character to the flavors of plum, currant, mocha and tobacco. Finishes bright and fresh, with dusty, tactile tannins and a classic St. Estephe medicinal note. This…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Montrose has a slightly rustic bouquet but is quite charming. It offers mainly red fruit, bacon fat, undergrowth and peaty scents, which are very Saint-Estèphe in style. The palate is medium-bodied with melted tannins. It is savory and a little dry, especially towards the finish, though there is good weight, and it is…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Saturated dark ruby. Exotic, port-like aromas of blackberry liqueur, mocha and grilled meat. Fat, lush, saline and sweet, conveying an impression of extreme port-like ripeness. Huge, mouth-saturating flavors of dark berries and chocolate. Not heavy but doesn’t exactly dance on the palate. Does this need years to shed some of its baby fat or will…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon, 33% merlot, and 2% cabernet franc; 80% new oak; 33 hectoliters per hectare; 14.5% alcohol; IPT 99; 56% selection for the grand vin Inky purple. Extremely ripe aromas of red fruits macerated in alcohol, espresso and dark chocolate (almost Banyuls- or port-like), with a more refreshing floral element emerging…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is exactly as I predict on the nose, almost overwhelming with over-ripe black plum, raisin, fig and black olive, smudged and lacking the precision and tension of the 2009 Montrose. The palate is sweet and cloying on the entry, hedonistic and voluminous, yet unequivocally bereft of tension and sense of terroir…