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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

Good deep red. Vibrant aromas of black cherry, spices, menthol and sage. Delivers the great sweetness and richness of the vintage but accompanied by a penetrating minerality that makes this chewy wine almost painful today. One senses that this extremely young wine is not yet fully formed. Finishes with powerful tannins and superb persistence. Giacosa…

Alto Piemonte & Valtellina, Continued… (Sep 2020)

The 2016 Carema Classico is a wine of unreal beauty. Orange peel, spice, star anise, sweet pipe tobacco, rose petal, mint and Alpine herbs are some of the many aromas that lift from the glass. Translucent and gracious, with tons of character, the 2016 is all class. Readers who want to understand what Nebbiolo in…

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 2000 Ornellaia (magnum) is a pretty, well-balanced offering with good concentration and complexity. The 2000 lacks some of the visceral thrill of top vintages, but it is an excellent choice for near-term drinking. In 2000 Ornellaia is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 18 months in French oak…

New Wines from the Tuscan Coast (Jul 2003)

(60% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot and 15% cabernet franc) Very dark ruby with a purplish core. Red and black fruits mingle with spicy clove on the nose, followed by raspberry jam, chocolate and cinnamon on the palate. Even fresher and more delineated than the 1999 bottling, with superb focus and concentration. Very ripe tannins envelop…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(14. 6% alcohol). Full red-ruby. Very ripe nose offers roasted meat, smoke, tobacco, underbrush and mint. Superripe, silky and lush, with a slightly roasted fruit character. Not a hugely complex or deep vintage for Ornellaia, and likely to evolve relatively quickly, but the wine’s uncommonly lush, velvety texture is more than worth the price of…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good bright medium red. Deep, expressive nose offers strawberry, camphor, marzipan and earthy minerality. Like liquid silk on entry, then very rich, ripe and sweet in the middle, offering complex notes of red berries, roasted herbs, leather and smoked meat. Finishes sappy and very long, with lush tannins and serious breadth. The tannins are more…