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2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(from fruit picked on September 12 and 13): Aromas of lime, white flowers, spices and hazelnut. Powerful, thick, rich and deep; wonderfully silky and broad but with terrific spicy acidity giving it a light touch. This is extract-rich for a yield of nearly 45 hectoliters per hectare. Finishes tactile, dry and long, with an impression…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.5% alcohol; from what Clavelier describes as soft calcaire): Bright medium red. Very complex, soil-driven aromas of raspberry, cherry, flint, fig, peony and rose petal. Not at all an austere style of Corton, conveying a fine-grained texture and an element of wildness to its red fruit and peony flavors. The plushest, sweetest and most voluminous…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Richebourg Grand Cru has a drop-dead gorgeous bouquet: so pure, so refined, so delineated! The scents are not powerful or ostentatious, but they unfold with each swirl of the glass, revealing astonishing mineralité. The palate is extraordinarily well defined. There is a patina of new oak to be subsumed, but it is still…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Richebourg Grand Cru is not as immediate as Thibault Liger-Belair’s Richebourg and for a fleeting moment it comes across as a bit disjointed. It only needs a bit of rigorous swirling for it to coalesce into something much more enticing: red plum, crushed strawberry, warm gravel and just a light Cuban cigar scent….

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain 1er Cru comes from a single parcel next to Domaine de la Vougeraie. It is missing a little precision on the nose at the moment, the smudged brioche aromas occluding the terroir. The well-balanced palate delivers a fine bead of acidity and a light saline touch toward the finish, but…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is the most opulent of the four tasted from this vineyard, ravishing dark cherries, raspberry and cranberry scents, touches of tobacco and humidor. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, real structure and density, still quite oaky with a creamy texture though that will be subsumed with time. A…