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Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2011)

(69% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot, 11% cabernet franc and 7% petit verdot): Saturated ruby. Blackberry, spices and graphite on the nose. Broad and rich but also magically airy in the mouth, with compelling perfume to the dark fruit and mineral flavors. A very dark, deep, young wine with terrific finishing grip. Here, too, the substantial…

Vintage Retrospective: The 2008 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2018)

(16.1% alcohol): Dark red-ruby. Aromas of plum, licorice, minerals and wild herbs, plus a whiff of spun sugar. In a distinctly plush, creamy-sweet style, conveying an opulent dried-fruit character complicated by a faint leathery quality. Not the last word in complexity but finishes with very smooth tannins and excellent length. This wine is carrying just…

Focus on the Central Coast (Nov 2010)

(16.2% alcohol) Glass-staining purple. Blackberry, boysenberry and licorice pastille on the nose, with mounting spice and floral notes and a strong wallop of cracked pepper. Deeply pitched black and blue fruit flavors expand with air and pick up strong spicecake and candied flower notes, along with velvety tannins. More backward than the Lorraine today, and…

The Best of Sonoma (Feb 2012)

The 2009 Chardonnay Reuling Vineyard is the biggest and richest of these 2009 Chardonnays. Pastry crust, spices, tangerine and dried apricot are all woven together beautifully in this large-scaled, expressive Chardonnay. Aubert used 100% new barrels here, which comes through ever so slightly in the texture of the fruit. An exuberant, explosive finish rounds things…

Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2011 Masseto is very clearly the product of a warm year. In that sense, it reminds me of the 2003. Black cherry, mocha, chocolate, licorice, espresso and smoke are all super concentrated. The intense heat of the year is also felt in the wine’s large-scaled tannins. Overall, this is a very good wine for…

Tuscany Part 2: Bolgheri, the Tuscan Coast and More Super-Tuscans (Dec 2014)

Deep purple-tinged ruby.  Sexy aromas of violet, licorice, truffle and earth, complicated by vanilla and coffee nuances.  Densely packed and tightly wound but not at all hard in spite of its rather sharp, chewy tannins. The fleshy black fruit, cocoa and coffee flavors are extremely ripe. This full-bodied, very rich wine finishes firm and long,…