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Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2009 Calon Ségur offers powerful black fruit, melted road tar, tobacco and pencil shaving scents, here with a touch of wild mint that surfaces after 15-20 minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly grainy texture. This solid Saint-Estèphe is shaking off the baby fat of that vintage and is more reserved than the…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 90% cabernet sauvignon, 7% merlot, and 3% petit verdot; 100% new oak) Bright ruby-red. Exhilarating nose awash with fresh blackberry, blackcurrant, mineral, violet and rose aromas. Absolutely seamless on entry, with a beautiful mineral underpinning to the pure red cherry, fresh blackcurrant and blackberry flavors. Long and very pure on the finish,…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Calon-Ségur seems to have more expressive Merlot on the nose vis-à-vis its peers, black cherries mixed with hints of cassis, leather and allspice. More tertiary scents emerge with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, quite fresh and lithe, well judged acidity with a high-toned, iodine-infused finish that caresses the mouth. Approachable…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Calon-Ségur has a classic Saint-Estèphe bouquet with pencil box and freshly tilled earth on the nose, beautifully defined if not with quite the same pedigree that François Millet imparts into the Grand Vin nowadays. (Less Merlot here than other examples.) The palate is medium-bodied, masculine in style, a little closed at first, strict…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good dark red. Musky, highly complex nose offers plum, blackcurrant, camphor, menthol, violet and lavender. Remarkably silky and fine-grained, combining outstanding subtle concentration and terrific inner-mouth energy. This very rich but classically dry Saint-Estephe finishes with lush, noble tannins and outstanding complexity. A great vintage for this estate, and a classic claret in a traditional…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Ruby-red. Expressive nose offers game, spice, tobacco, leather, underbrush, iron and exotic flowers. Supple and fine-grained, with currant and baked plum flavors complicated by chocolate and leather. A wine of moderate intensity and power for this property but rather suave. The cooler vintage character comes through on the finish, which features notes of raw currant…