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Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Pontet-Canet yet again suggested that there is inconsistency between bottles. It has a decadent bouquet of precocious red fruit laced with truffle, garrigue and meat juice aromas – not the most typical Pauillac that you will find, though not unattractive. The palate is full-bodied with soft, rounded tannins and slightly lower perceived acidity…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of cassis and violet. Dense and tactile in the mouth; a huge, chewy wine with major extract but also considerable refinement. Almost painfully backward today, and a bit less perfumed than it was in the year or so after the bottling, but the huge tannins show no hardness. Another…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1996 Château Margaux stands as one of the pinnacles during Paul Pontallier’s illustrious tenure. I remember it dazzling out of barrel, perhaps my first memory of tasting wine at that prenatal stage. It has retained the fabulous tension and freshness on the nose, every atom infused with mineralité, subtle pressed flower/violet scents unfurling with…

The 2013 and 2012 Northern Rhône Wines (Feb 2015)

Vivid ruby. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red and dark berries, along with suggestions of star anise, smoky minerals and potpourri. Silky and expansive on the palate, offering intense, deeply pitched black raspberry and violet pastille flavors and an undercurrent of zesty minerality. Fresh, seamless and sweet on the incisive finish, which lingers…

The 2013 and 2012 Northern Rhône Wines (Feb 2015)

Vivid ruby. A complex, highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh red and dark berries, along with suggestions of star anise, smoky minerals and potpourri. Silky and expansive on the palate, offering intense, deeply pitched black raspberry and violet pastille flavors and an undercurrent of zesty minerality. Fresh, seamless and sweet on the incisive finish, which lingers…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

In two recent tastings the 2005 Château Margaux has been nothing less than magnificent. A wine of stunning perfume and inner sweetness, the 2005 gradually opens to reveal layers of red-toned fruit intermingled with floral accents. It’s as if all the classic Margaux signatures have been amped up in a huge way. Dehydration on the…