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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, which comes from de Montille’s south-facing vineyards, is relatively early-picked. It has a tightly wound nose that has difficulty following the Chevalier-Montrachet (even though that was reduced!) The palate is well balanced with a harmonious entry, slightly waxy in texture as a Corton-Charlemagne should be, although it feels quite linear…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2010 Gruaud Larose has a more capable nose than the previous vintage, with layers of red and black fruit, a touch of garrigues and pressed flowers. Lovely delineation, this gains intensity with aeration and shades the previous vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, fresh and vibrant. It has better salinity than the…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2010 Gruaud Larose has a more capable nose than the previous vintage, with layers of red and black fruit, a touch of garrigues and pressed flowers. Lovely delineation, this gains intensity with aeration and shades the previous vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, fresh and vibrant. It has better salinity than the…

2010 Red Burgundies (Jan 2012)

(made from purchased wine): Medium ruby. Aromas of blackberry, violet, licorice and bitter chocolate. Sweet and fairly large-scaled in the middle, and a bit exotic, with soft flavors of redcurrant and spices. Finishes with substantial fine-grained tannins but could use more lift. Flashy wine, like lipstick, notes Prost.

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

Bright, full red. Deep aromas and flavors of dark fruits, violet, mocha and truffley underbrush. Fat, sweet and rich; full and sharply delineated, combining subtle earthy nuances and captivating floral high notes. Finishes with serious but suave tannins and terrific energy and length. The acidity of the 2013s will slow down their development in bottle,…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Mazoyères-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from two parcels of 45- and 80-year-old vines on much stonier soils than the Charmes-Chambertin. This has a knockout nose of brambly black fruit, cassis and crushed stone aromas that gain intensity with every swirl of the glass. The palate is silky-smooth on the entry and very precise and…