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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Ausone has a mature bouquet with brambly red fruit, marmalade, leather and touches of cooked meat. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a little dry and more savory than expected. I feel there is something a little passé about this Ausone, indicative of the time when wines were being pushed a little…

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

A heady, exotic wine, the 2003 Mouton Rothschild takes hold of all the senses. The ripeness and exuberance of the year comes through in spades as this dramatic, opulent wine shows off its radiant personality. The 2003 can be enjoyed now, but it could also use another few years for the tannins to soften. Still,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good medium ruby. This is downright exotic on the nose: mocha, coffee, graphite and coconut, lifted by sandalwood and cinnamon spice. Then dense, supple and fine-grained without coming across as heavy. Suggestion of aromatic tree bark. A seamless wine that spreads out horizontally on the back end and finishes with very fine tannins. A bit…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Mouton Rothschild has a powerful nose with slightly smudged summer fruit, leather, dates, forest floors and a touch of eucalyptus. The palate is medium-bodied and fleshy, with powdery tannins and better acidity than the Clerc Milon. It’s quite tertiary, with just a little VA on the roasted coffee bean finish. The question is…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Pavie Macquin is a vintage that I had not encountered for many years. The clean nose features red cherry and light balsamic scents, although it lacks complexity for the vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, slightly rigid tannins, quite a lot of soy and a rather short, ferrous finish. This ought to…

Six Decades of Pavie-Macquin: 1928-2018 (May 2020)

The 2000 Pavie-Macquin is opulent and intense, but also rather monolithic. I don't expect that cellaring is going to make much of a difference. Dried cherry, leather, cedar, tobacco, menthol and licorice add a measure of nuance. I wanted more given the reputation of the year. In my view, the 2000 is too evolved for…