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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

(100% vendange entier): Very deep red with ruby tones. Slightly high-toned, chocolatey-ripe aromas of black raspberry, menthol and minerals. Fat and sweet but youthfully closed; doesn’t offer quite the lift of the Reignots today but this is a remarkably full, large-scaled wine for the year. A bit darker and earthier in its fruit character. Sweetness…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny Village had been racked three weeks earlier. I tasted from a used barrel, but the final blend will include 20% new wood. The perfumed nose, mainly of black fruit here, reveals a touch of pressed iris that is nicely defined. The palate is replete with crunchy black fruit and a hint of…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(from 11 parcels of vines, the youngest 30 years of age; the yield here was much lower than for the Nuits-Saint-Georges owing to a lot of millerandage, noted van Canneyt): Bright, dark red. Lovely lift and ripeness to the aromas of raspberry and smoky minerality. At once creamy and juicy, with intense purple fruit flavors…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2014 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a charming rusticity to the nose. It’s ferrous in style, with vestiges of red fruit mixed with damp earth. There’s fine delineation here. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grainy tannins on the entry. Dark berry fruit mixed with ash and black tea, missing just a little weight on…

Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 2004 Vieux Château Certan is an important one in my opinion, since it is the first whereby Alexandre Thienpont surpasses the limitations of the growing season, producing one of the best Right Bank wines you will find. Now beginning to show signs of ageing on the rim, it has an intense, more Merlot driven…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

(70% merlot and 30% cabernet franc) Good red-ruby. Highly complex, cabernet franc-dominated aromas of berries, dark chocolate, leather, tobacco and spices. Dense and fat but with a firm edge of acidity leavening the wine’s layered texture. A lush and creamy wine with terrific spine. Classic VCC, finishing with outstanding spicy persistence. It’s hard to find…