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Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Léoville Barton was picked September 15–16 and matured in 70% new oak. It is one of the best vintages that I have encountered in barrel. Wow! This shoots from the glass with beautifully defined black fruit, mineral-rich aromas, pixelated with laser-like focus. The palate is medium-bodied with chiseled tannins, a perfect line of…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Saturated magenta. Powerful, mineral-driven red and blue fruit, candied violet, olive and exotic spice scents show fine definition and lift. Densely packed and energetic on the palate, offering intense, spice-accented bitter cherry, Chambord and blueberry flavors that open up with air. The blue fruit and floral notes drive an impressively long, finely detailed finish that’s…

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Vigneto Bellavista soars out of the glass with breathtaking intensity in all of its dimensions. The aromatics alone are striking, but that’s just the beginning. Rich and sumptuous on the palate, the 2019 is the most refined Bellavista I have ever tasted, and I have tasted them all. A…

Vinous Table: The Ledbury, London, UK (Mar 2023)

The 1991 Richebourg Grand Cru is better than the example tasted three years ago. Wonderful delineation on the nose; there are blackberry and earthy notes, still those hints of meat juice, perhaps more transparency than other bottles. The palate is medium-bodied and framed by filigree tannins, with sour cherry hints commingling with black truffle and…

Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999 (May 2019)

The 1991 Richebourg Grand Cru replicates the bottle that I tasted in 2015. Showing just slight ageing on the rim, it has a compelling, quite meaty bouquet with blackberry, briary and loamy notes, great depth and power, though maybe not quite as charming as the 1990. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, less tart…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, saturated red. Aromatic nose of plum, smoke, menthol and maple syrup. Soft, lush and plummy in the mouth, with lovely restrained sweetness and firm supporting acidity. Not hugely dense but vinous and impressively persistent. An excellent showing.