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Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Le Pin is a Pomerol that I did not taste out of barrel when samples were being sent, so the first time I encountered it was with Jacques Thienpont in his office, together with his new right hand, Diana Berrouet-Garcia. It has a fragrant nose of brambly red fruit, touches of sous-bois and…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Léoville-Poyferré is every bit as impressive as it was from barrel. If anything, it has gained in freshness and vibrancy with élevage. Dark cherry, plum, mocha, graphite and a kiss of French oak are some of the many notes that infuse the 2020 with tons of character. I especially admire its vertical energy…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Léoville Poyferré was bottled in June. It has a very intense nose, displaying more black fruit than its showing from barrel, also the opulence tempered since its bottling. Fine mineralité, hints of clove and bay leaf develop with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth opening, still slightly lactic…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Léoville-Poyferré is a powerful, structured wine. In recent vintages, Léoville-Poyferré has been more opulent, but the 2020 shows off a towering, vertical build framed by a soaring spine of tannin. Dark red cherry, pomegranate, cedar and spicebox emerge with a bit of coaxing. Ultimately, though, Léoville-Poyferré is less showy than most Saint-Juliens at…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Léoville Poyferré builds on the success of recent vintages, offering intense yet exquisitely defined black cherries, wild strawberry, cassis and crushed stone aromas. It is high-toned as usual but not quite as hedonistic as the recently tasted 2018. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins that belie the backbone of this Saint-Julien. Slightly…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Palmer is a wine of total refinement and class. All the elements are wonderfully meshed together, as they always have been from the very start. Dark black cherry, plum, mocha, licorice, spice and leather notes are all seamless in the glass. The tannins are present, but they are silky and pretty much buried…