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Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon Rosé is laced with crushed red berry fruit, orange peel, mint, rose petal and dried herbs. The 2008 has started to fill out, such that it is less austere than in the past, but the driving contours of this cold year are evident. Clean bracing notes support the persistent finish.

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)

Very youthful deep ruby-red color. Brooding nose offers perfumed blackcurrant, mineral, violet and quinine aromas. Big, dense and rich, conveying an impression of strong extract to the powerful, well-delineated blackberry and herb flavors. The long, tactile finish features chewy but polished tannins and a lingering floral note. Though ready to drink now, this wine will…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright gold-tinged yellow. Knockout nose combines lime, pineapple, honeyed peach and cinnamon, complicated by very pure floral botrytis. Dense and ripe but vibrant too, with strong spice character and harmonious acidity enlivening the wine’s highly expressive lemon and tropical fruit flavors. Finishes broad, tactile and very complex, with terrific length and a lingering spicy nuance….

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2011 Climens has a fresh, lifted, mineral-driven bouquet which has closed down a little. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, taut and fresh. A lively, tensile finish, with hints of stem ginger that linger on the aftertaste. This is drinking beautifully. Tasted at the Climens vertical at the château…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Climens has a more floral bouquet with yellow flowers, honeysuckle and light almond scents. Well defined though, it seems to have less botrytis than its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with a tangy, marmalade-tinged entry, viscous and quite concentrated with a dab of ginger on the finish. Excellent. Tasted blind at the annual…

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Inky ruby. A heady, powerfully scented bouquet evokes cassis, blueberry, licorice and mocha, with a smoky nuance building with air. Silky and seamless on the palate, offering deep dark fruit liqueur flavors sharpened by gentle acidity and a peppery note. Clings with impressive tenacity on the spice- and mineral-tinged finish, leaving a sweet floral pastille…