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An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2009 Gruaud Larose is far superior to the previous vintage; interestingly, the first vintage is based on only Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. There’s much more fruit concentration here, with blackberry and raspberry laced with iodine and incense. It is cohesive, though not as complex as the bottle four years ago. The palate is medium-bodied…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon and 35% merlot; 13.35% alcohol; pH 3.85; 76 IPT; 40% selection) Deep ruby. A very classic nose of cassis, cedar and smoky graphite is devoid of animal and earthy scents and conveys a sense of refinement rare for this wine. Then very smooth in the mouth, with excellent palate…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gruaud Larose has calmed down since I last tasted it (when I described the bouquet as raucous). Now it is quite refined with blackberry, cedar and leather aromas, not the most powerful you will come across but very well focused. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, not…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gruaud Larose has a fresh, backward, tightly coiled bouquet with ample blackberry and bilberry fruit, fine tension and focus, a nose that is intending to last the distance (and why not?) The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and vibrant, laced-like tannin with a wonderfully detailed and…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Brane-Cantenac offers an exquisite array of fruit on the compelling nose: boysenberry, raspberry confit and crushed strawberry, all laced with pressed violets and an underlying chalky/mineral vein. The fresh, linear, medium-bodied palate presents supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity and just a vein of greenness on the finish that I can abide…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Brane-Cantenac is powerful, structured and explosive in feel. A deep, resonant wine, the 2015 boasts off the charts ripeness allied to formidable structure and tannic heft. I imagine the 2015 is going to need a number of years to become approachable and more than that to be at its best. The dark stone…