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Changing Gears in Barossa (Jun 2023)

This 2021 The Steading, a Grenache blend made with fruit from vines averaging 70 years of age, is very attractive and well-made with energetic aromas of black cherry, spice, new leather and dried herbs. The 2021 is well composed, with an initial impact of primary dark cherry and spice before more meaty and earthy tones…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Siran, picked from September 20 until October 18, is raised in around 33% new oak (as usual). It has an intense, focused nose of vibrant black fruit, more floral than its peers, with violet and incense aromas. The palate is framed by pliant tannins and crisp acidity, and delivers gentle grip and signs…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Siran is impressive, to say the least. Inky, dark and seductive, the 2018 is gorgeous right out of the bottle. Blue/purplish fruit, mocha, spice, chocolate and new French oak all race across the palate. The high percentage of Merlot is felt in the wine's juiciness and palate-weight, while a kick of brightness energizes…

2016 Barolo: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2020)

The 2016 Barolo Ginestra shows all of the aromatic and flavor intrigue that is such a signature of this site. Pine, menthol, licorice, orange peel, mint and macerated red cherry all flesh out effortlessly. Mid-weight structure and a good bit of inner sweetness gives the 2016 a feeling of accessibility, until the firm Ginestra tannins…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Château Margaux has a well-defined bouquet with cedar-infused black fruit, undergrowth and touches of brown spice. A little more precision than the Haut-Brion. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid black fruit, finely balanced. It’s not the most complex First Growth, and it feels linear and strict toward the Pauillac-like finish. It’s a “serious”…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Deep healthy color. Lively, subtle black cherry and cassis aromas, with a floral topnote. Impeccably balanced and very rich, this wine already displays lovely intensity of flavor and loads of personality. Fresh acids give it a juicy quality. Delicious, ripe finish, with discreet tannins. Excellent value.