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Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2006 Cristal is a rich, explosive wine that captures all of the natural radiance of this warm year. Ample and full-bodied, the 2006 is one of the more extroverted recent Cristals. As such, it will drink well now, even though it has more than enough body to drink well for another 20 years or…

Champagne: New Releases and Collectibles (May 2014)

Broad, ample and resonant on the palate, the 2006 Cristal dazzles with its pure richness and volume. Readers need to give the 2006 another 4-5 years in bottle, perhaps longer, as the wine appears to be shutting down a bit. Tasted next to the 2002, today the 2006 is a bit less opulent but just…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(made from 55% pinot noir and 45% chardonnay; 20% of the wine was aged in oak; no malo, as usual): Light, bright gold. Heady mineral- and smoke-accented citrus and orchard fruit aromas, with notes of fig, toasted nuts and sweet butter adding complexity and depth. Powerful, palate-staining poached pear and orange flavors are given spine…

Mosel 2015: Rain in the Nick of Time (Jun 2017)

Zesty fresh lemon and a quarry-dust-like suggestion of crushed stone on the nose set the relatively austere, pungent tone for this bottling, as confirmed by incisive mustard seed as well as glowing piquancy of peach kernel on a polished but firm palate. Fresh lemon juiciness conveys welcome refreshment to the penetratingly persistent finish. It will…

Mosel 2015: Rain in the Nick of Time (Jun 2017)

Zesty fresh lemon and a quarry-dust-like suggestion of crushed stone on the nose set the relatively austere, pungent tone for this bottling, as confirmed by incisive mustard seed as well as glowing piquancy of peach kernel on a polished but firm palate. Fresh lemon juiciness conveys welcome refreshment to the penetratingly persistent finish. It will…

2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2017 Barolo Cascina Nuova is an attractive wine to drink now and over the next decade or so. Bright red-toned fruit, crushed rose petal and mint open in the glass. The tannins are a bit grainy, but I would not push my luck too far on aging.