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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good ruby-red. Superripe aromas of roasted black raspberry and blackcurrant complicated by roasted nuts, sexy oak spices and game. Juicy, penetrating and vinous, with complex currant, lead pencil and oak flavors. A firm, structured wine with very good backbone and big, cheek-coating tannins.

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The bottle of 2014 Pontet-Canet showed better than the previous one at the 10-Year-On tasting in London. This offers much more restraint on the nose. It’s quite precise, with greater mineralité seeping through the black cherry and cassis fruit. The palate has a sorbet-fresh entry, fine tannins and a silky sheen. The oak is fully…

Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)

Saturated, deep ruby-red. Aromatic, pure aromas of cassis, mocha, iris and Cuban tobacco. Supple and fruity, with the Burgundian floral aspect shown by so many Northern Rhône wines from this vintage. Very fresh and juicy; pure and sharply delineated. Not at all a southern style of syrah. A wine with excellent thrust but not a…

Northern Rhône 2024: One Hill Rises

The 1996 L’Hermitage sits near the end of its broad drinking window, opening with earthy scents, dried red fruits and mushroom tones. Built on gently grippy tannins and fresh acidity, the medium-bodied 1996 concludes with a distinctively refined last touch.

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

Antinori’s 2010 Tignanello is stunning, as it has been since I started tasting the component wines in 2011. Firm yet sweet, silky tannins form the backbone for this gorgeous, vivid wine. Dark red cherries, plums, cloves, mint and sage inform a Tignanello that impresses for its delineation, nuance and power. Clean, saline notes support the…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has a justifiably lofty reputation and this bottle is evidence that it has lost hardly any of its allure. Backward, almost surly on the nose at first, it opens gloriously with intense blackberry and blueberry fruit, pressed violet and background scents of a marshy estuary. Stunning delineation. The palate…