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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good medium ruby. Explosive nose of black raspberry, coffee and leather. Hugely rich, dense and sweet, with deep flavors of currant, plum and chocolate complicated by underlying minerality. Wonderfully dense and full on the back end, with broad tannins and palate-staining length. Today, the 2005 comes off as dry by comparison. A standout of the…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

The 2016 Volnay Clos de Verseuil 1er Cru is bright, forward and punchy, yet also has more than enough fruit to fill out its frame. Sweet, perfume notes give the finish lift and aromatic expansiveness. The tannins will need a few years to soften, but all the elements are in the right place to allow…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(this wine and the Caillerets got 30% new oak): Bright red-ruby. Musky, complex soil tones along with black cherry and mocha on the nose. Quite suave and silky on entry, conveying a relaxed quality (production here was 42 hectoliters per hectare) but no shortage of concentration. In fact, this is a wonderfully classy, supple wine…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Volnay Clos des Verseuil 1er Cru has a very perfumed, almost over-scented bouquet that feels very floral, rather obscuring the fruit profile underneath. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chewy tannins, grippy and firm in the mouth with some dry wood tannins that are marring the finish at the moment. This is a…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

The 2016 Morey Saint Denis Aux Chézeaux 1er Cru is powerful, intense and a bit rough around the edges. Even so, the aromatic and fruit presence are both alluring. The 2016 finishes with notable substance and power. I imagine the tannin profile will always be on the virile side of things. Even so, there is…

2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Musky citrus peel, honey, vanilla and flowers on the nose. Dense, solid and fresh, with the element of white flowers perking up the palate. Good flesh nicely framed by a firm edge of acidity. From 40-year-old vines located under Batard-Montrachet.