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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Good full red with a hint of amber at the rim. Superripe aromas of redcurrant, cherry, roast coffee and menthol; nearly liqueur-like jammy sweetness on the nose. Rich, fleshy and deep, with berry and chocolate flavors along with a faint green note. Rather Burgundian in character. Finishes with slightly dry-edged tannins. Drink over the next…

Vinous Table: Tristan, Horsham, UK (Jun 2022)

The 1971 Cos d’Estournel is similar to a couple of previous showings. Smudged compared to the 1971 Montrose, this feels earthy and perhaps heavily chaptalized. The palate has a sweet core of rustic, ferrous red fruit that is completely degraded with a rather monotone finish. Not undrinkable by a long chalk, though on this occasion,…

Vinous Table: The Harwood Arms, London, UK (Mar 2022)

The 1971 Cos d’Estournel requires two-hours decant. Smudged strawberry jam on the nose, leather and tobacco surface with time. The palate is well balanced with molasses infusing the red fruit, suggesting a bit of chaptalization at the time (common in this growing season.) Having drunk this wine four or five times now, this one might…

Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1985-2016 (Jun 2019)

(the estate made a Vieilles Vignes bottling in 1995 but there was no remaining stock): Good moderately saturated medium red, if a bit less lucid than the preceding vintages. Sexy aromas of red berries, mocha and musky forest floor, with higher-pitched cherry and rose petal notes emerging with air. Solid, sappy and seamless, conveying a…

Vinous Table: Noble Rot – Mayfair, London, UK (Jun 2023)

The 1949 Yquem is a vintage that I have not encountered. I will quote the official château website, which gives a succinct overview of the vintage… “This year had record temperatures as well as drought conditions that caused the biggest forest fire France has ever known. Showers in May and June limited water stress, and…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

This bottle of 1967 Climens was served blind by Bérénice Lurton at the château. It is unquestionably the best bottle that I have encountered. Brilliant delineation on the nose with irresistible scents of orange pith, Japanese yuzu and those Portuguese Pastéis de Nata that I remarked on last time. Fresh and vibrant on the palate…