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Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that has been variable over the years and this example merely adds to the bottle-to-bottle inconsistency. It starts promisingly with quite a mineral-driven bouquet, more intensity than the ’82 Beychevelle, plenty of black fruit mixed with undergrowth and leather, a touch of chlorophyll too. The palate is medium-bodied and…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Palmer has been inconsistent over the years, a majority indicating that a) they dropped an easy catch and b) it’s not a patch on the brilliant ’83. This bottle is weird: an off-putting geranium scent on the nose that obscures the fruit, whilst the palate is simple and rather hard, demonstrating some herbaceousness…

Chianti Classico: The Brilliant 2021s & Variable 2020s (Aug 2023)

The 2018 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Ipsus remains light and also a bit austere, although I note it is gradually emerging from its shell. There’s quite a bit of nervous tension that remains, and that I think it will always be part of the wine’s personality. I have tasted the 2018 numerous times and it…

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2017 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione is ample, rich and quite seductive, which is to say very much in the style of the year. Dark red fruit, spice, leather, tobacco and incense all build as the 2017 shows off its considerable allure. This is so expressive today.

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Chianti Classico Gran Selezione CeniPrimo is a very pretty wine. Bright and translucent, with terrific energy, the 2019 has so much to offer. Sweet floral notes, kirsch, spice, rose petal and French oak are nicely delineated throughout. I very much like the energy here. The new oak is perhaps a bit strong, but…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Grand Puy-Lacoste has a clean and precise bouquet with graphite infused red berry fruit, woodland scents, fern and touches of autumn leaves. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite bold and assertive with dried blood and ferrous notes infusing the red fruit towards the persistent finish. You could broach this now although…