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Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Branaire Ducru has a fresh and vibrant bouquet, very well defined with beautifully integrated oak, quite precise graphite-infused black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a ferrous opening, gritty in texture, quite edgy and sharp with an almost citrus fresh, tensile finish. Very fine. Tasted blind at the Southwold annual tasting.

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru is just starting to drink well. Fresh and mineral, the 2011 also looks to have plenty of life ahead of it. Chalk, lemon confit and white flowers all grace this open-knit, curvy Charlemagne. The 2011 has really softened in recent years. Time in the glass brings out the layers in…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

The 2011 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru was served blind at a dinner in Bordeaux. This has always been a fine vintage from the estate, although it has lost a little vigor since my last encounter. The nose is quite strict, offering scents of lemon verbena, red apples and a touch of orange pith, and not as…

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(from vines harvested between September 6 and 12): Pale silver-straw color. Enticing, pure aromas of lemon, white plum, wild herbs and menthol, lifted by a hawthorn topnote. Pliant, silky and fat but also fresh and precise, with complex, concentrated flavors of lemon, grapefruit pith, spices and powdered stone. Lovely classic vintage with texture, balance and…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Bright red-ruby. Knockout nose features boysenberry, currant, cedar, graphite and mocha. Suave, gentle and sweet, already displaying ineffable inner-mouth perfume. The 17% merlot component injects a silky component, and the oak element adds a complementary sweetness. Complex, lush, horizontal finish saturates the mouth with flavor. It was not clear to me in April that the…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2004 Chateau Margaux is one of the dark horses of the decade. This bottle, which came directly from the château cellars, accidentally landing in my hands (long story), reconfirms the caliber. The bouquet takes a little time to find its feet, eventually offering richly layered scents with raspberry, blackberry, crushed rock and pencil shavings….