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2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Pichon Baron, which was matured in 60% new oak and bottled in June 2023, has an engaging bouquet, estuarine-influenced with hints of seaweed permeating the black fruit. It shows fine delineation and focus, the like we have come to expect these days. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, quite fleshy in style…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Pichon-Longueville Baron (which, incidentally, has been the legal name since 2021!) is matured in 70% new oak. It opens up nicely in the glass, revealing a straight-down-the-line, floral bouquet of violets intermingled with graphite notes. There is a delicacy about the aromatics that distinguishes it from recent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Pichon-Baron is a dense, packed wine, its mid-weight structure notwithstanding. There is a lot of wine here, but readers have to be patient. Red-toned fruit, blood orange, mint, rose petal and cinnamon add layers of nuance, but more than anything else, the 2021 stands out for its persistence.

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

Dark and brooding in bearing, the 2021 Pichon Baron is a somber, mysterious wine. It is every bit as impressive as it was en primeur. Graphite, leather, spice, mocha and dried herbs meld together in a wine of power, precision and contemporary classicism. It’s one of my early favorites in this vintage. I won’t be…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Angélus contains 60% Cabernet Franc, the highest percentage ever, and also reflects an increasing use of wooden foudres (half the Cabernet Franc or 30% of the whole blend). It has a more understated bouquet compared to the bravura vintages of the last three years, demanding gentle coaxing to reveal scents of brambly black…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

For the first time ever, Angélus is 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Merlot in 2021. There’s terrific density and power, especially within the context of the year. Black cherry, chocolate, spice, menthol and lavender all build nicely in the glass. The 2021 has quite a bit of richness, and its 14% alcohol, a bit lower…