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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Léoville Las Cases is a very sensual wine. Silky and nuanced, the 2018 exudes extraordinary finesse from start to finish. The 2018 is a bit closed in on itself at first, but then again, that is Las Cases. At the same time, the tannins are nowhere as brooding as they once were. Inky…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Léoville–Las Cases, which was picked at 35.5hl/ha and matured in 90% new oak, still shows the exuberant floral bouquet that I remarked upon from barrel, featuring violets and (less so) lavender scents that complement the multilayered black fruit. On initial pouring, after a 60 minute decant, it blossoms and evolves greater delineation and…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Valandraud has a ripe and opulent bouquet with precocious red fruit, fig and rose petals, a little warmth of alcohol blurring the edges and becoming more tarry with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent plush, saturated tannin. This is sleek and modern in style, heady and concentrated with a decadent finish. It…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Full ruby-red. Lively aromas of blackberry and licorice. Juicy, intense and sharply delineated, with black fruit, mineral and floral flavors spreading out to saturate the palate. Ripe acidity energizes and extends the flavors on the suavely tannic, very long finish. With 72 hours in the recorked bottle, this beauty remained fresh and firm.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(an 80/20 blend of merlot and cabernet franc; pH 3.5; 14% alcohol; 100 IPT) Glass-staining opaque purple-ruby. The nose initially shows heavy torrefaction notes of roasted coffee bean and cedar, but blackcurrant and spicy plum notes emerge slowly with aeration. Then smooth, ripe and light on its feet, with lively, nicely integrated acids framing and…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Palmer is even more impressive from bottle than it was from barrel, and that is saying something. Rich, exotic and beautifully layered, Palmer is a real head-turner in 2018. Inky dark fruit, chocolate, licorice, espresso and sweet floral notes build over time, but it is the wine's stunning depth and textural voluptuousness that…