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2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(bottled the day before my late-May visit): Orange juice, peach and a hint of spice on the nose. Pure and focused, with lovely acidity and calcaire-driven minerality giving the middle palate a very taut quality. Finishes precise and long, with excellent cut and grip. I’d wait four or five years to pull the cork.

Giacomo Conterno: Seven Decades of Barolo Riserva Monfortino

The 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino picks up where the 1999 and 1996 leave off. Tannic and imposing, the 2013 is an austere young Monfortino for the cellar. Soaring aromatics and vibrant, palate-staining fruit are some of the signatures. Readers should expect a bold, large-framed Monfortino.

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Lafite-Rothschild is a gorgeous wine, but it is also very young. Readers lucky enough to own it will find a very classic, gracious Lafite-Rothschild that still needs a few years to be at its best. Bright red-toned fruit, crushed rocks, mint and licorice open first, followed by darker aromas and flavors that develop…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 700-$2,300) Bright medium ruby. Knockout nose combines black- and redcurrant, minerals, graphite, licorice and lavender. Wonderfully suave and seamless, but with great purity and precision of flavor and terrific inner-palate perfume and lift. This dances over every square millimeter of the palate. Almost painfully young today, with an impression of fresh acidity serving to…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 d’Yquem is without question one of the wines of the vintage. Just as alluring from bottle as it was from barrel, the 2015 is a wine that engages all of the senses, from the intellectual to the more hedonistic. Lilting notes of pineapple, mint, orange peel and white flowers grace the palate, but…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Yquem was poured from magnum. To be honest, it is almost identical to the bottle tasted three years earlier (although a wit would counter that it's “twice as nice”). It's probably too young to distinguish between the maturity of the two formats, but it has a gorgeous saffron-scented bouquet with hints of acacia…