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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Haut-Brion Blanc has blossomed beautifully over the last two years. Rich and ample in feel, with superb richness, the Blanc is a knock-out. Everything is dialed up in the 2018 – the aromas, flavors and textures are all so wonderfully expressive. Lemon confit, pear, marzipan, chamomile and gently spiced notes build as the…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Clerc Milon is a very pretty, mature Pauillac. Dark fruit, leather, licorice, game, incense and tobacco give the 2005 a feeling of maturity. The 2005 is in a very pretty spot right now to offer fine drinking, but I would not push my luck, as the edges are starting to fray.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Full ruby-red. Superripe, almost syrupy aromas of cassis, licorice, graphite and coffee. Full, seamless and sweet, with a ripeness verging on exotic; but this is fat with fruit. An outsized Clerc-Milon with a relatively high 13.2% alcohol but also very good energy in the mouth. Finishes with terrific breadth and substantial ripe tannins. This was…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru contains around 40% whole bunch. It has an intense, almost precocious bouquet of blueberries, dates, raspberry preserve and terra-cotta-like aromas. The medium-bodied palate features a sweet core of blue fruit. An almost nubile Bonnes-Mares with a luscious, sexy, saturated finish and great depth, if not the precision and tension of…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a lifted, perfumed and quite floral bouquet of brambly red fruit infused with wilted rose petal and a touch of blood orange. Gorgeous! The palate is medium-bodied with fine structure, a killer line of acidity and perhaps some discreet stem addition, as it is overtly peppery toward the finish….

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Bright medium red. Cool aromas of cherry, menthol and minerals turned a bit oaky with air. Silky and round but juicy, with firm acidity and underlying minerality giving punch to the raspberry and mint. A step up in intensity and shape from the Clos de la Mousse, but in need of a few years to…