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Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2010 Vieux Château Certan has been compared to the 1950 by Alexandre Thienpont, who mentioned that berries were usually small, with yields at 35hl/ha. It’s slightly deeper in color than the 2009. This has an outstanding, concentrated bouquet with black fruit, melted tar, cedar and a touch of morels (as noted previously). There is…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Vieux Château Certan feels a little disjointed at first, eventually manifesting more freshness with black fruit, freshly tilled earth, morels and cedar, all very well defined but I suspect requiring more bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins. Pretty red berry fruit laced with soy, white pepper and cedar, fanning…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Vieux Château Certan has a more modern bouquet compared to its peers. There is plenty of high quality new oak that slightly masks the fruit, although it does not overwhelm and should be completely subsumed with bottle age. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. This is…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2009 Lynch-Bages is very well defined on the nose, yet powerful with ample fruit to spare: blackberry, wild strawberry, cranberry mixed with cedar and a light mint touch. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and lightly spiced with superb focus. It exerts a gentle grip from start to…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2009 Lynch-Bages is very well defined on the nose, yet powerful with ample fruit to spare: blackberry, wild strawberry, cranberry mixed with cedar and a light mint touch. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity and lightly spiced with superb focus. It exerts a gentle grip from start to…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1978 Latour, served from ex-château double magnums, is a wine that I have encountered several times over the years. Of course, provenance plays its part, likewise the large format, yet I remain unconvinced that this is a top-flight Latour. At least the bouquet is fresh with cedar and pencil lead aromas, commendably detailed considering…