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The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Cerretta is a very pretty wine. Sweet, perfumed aromatics and beams of nervous tannin give the 2018 its focused personality. There is good energy and vibrancy here, if not quite the mid-palate pliancy that is typical. The 2018 is shaping up to be a decidedly understated Cerretta.

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos de la Bussière is tightly-wound on the nose with blackberry, raspberry, hints of singed leather and spice. I appreciate the delineation here. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, a fine bead of acidity, chalky in texture with a grip and certainly impressive focus on the finish. This is…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the crop level here was off by one-third, as this vineyard is on the Chambolle side of Morey-Saint-Denis, where frost was a factor): Healthy deep red. Musky, ripe aromas of dark raspberry, bitter chocolate and licorice. Supple and pliant on the palate, showing lovely texture and sweetness for this cuvée; more relaxed than the village…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, which is completely de-stemmed, offers pretty blueberry and raspberry fruit on the refined nose – pretty and playful. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins. There is a sharpness here, and a citric finish. Fine.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, totally destemmed, has a very pure bouquet of blackberry and bilberry scents, harmonious and delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black currant fruit, almost pastille-like in purity. Quite saline on the finish. This is a perfect and hopefully affordable introduction to Christophe Roumier’s winemaking skills.

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Good medium red. Musky aromas of black raspberry, smoke and minerals, plus a whiff of game. Juicy but not especially high-pitched, offering scents of redcurrant, raspberry, tobacco and milk chocolate Substantial ripe tannins showing today. Here’s a village wine that will need time in bottle.