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Making the Case for New Zealand Reds (Mar 2021)

This is lavishly oaked on first impression, the damson-like fruit emerging from its veil with time in glass. It is supple and smooth with a structured tannic frame that creates a sinewy impression. The cooler vintage provides a sense of elegance and freshness despite the boldness. Lengthy finish.

Vinous Table: An Unforgettable Charity Dinner at Saison (Dec 2018)

The 1995 Krug is gorgeous. I chose it because one of my guests loves Krug and I thought the 1995 would have the right amount of complexity to pair beautifully with the smokiness in Saison’s caviar. Although the 1995 Krug is not a truly epic wine, it is in a sweet spot right now.

Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Light yellow. Rich and powerful, with leesy pear and white truffle aromas accented by gentle notes of white pepper and cinnamon. Extremely powerful Krug, with rich orchard fruit flavors, a velvety texture and warm, rich, inviting notes of brioche and creme brulee Finishes with intense pear and peach flavors and lingering notes of smoke, iodine…

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

A pretty, delicate wine, the 2005 Brut Rosé La Grande Année is also a bit more intriguing than the Grande Année, as it has more mid-palate pliancy and greater overall depth. Crushed flowers, sweet red berries, cinnamon and rose petal notes inform the effortless, gracious finish. Disgorged: May 2015.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Light orange color. Strawberry, earth and walnut aromas, along with a hint of Burgundian underbrush. Big but bright; spicy and very dry. Toothcoating, slightly drying finish calls out for food. A distinctly idiosyncratic rose; serious wine more than Champagne. I must point out that two subsequent bottles of this wine were dry-edged and tired. Also…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is exactly as I predict on the nose, almost overwhelming with over-ripe black plum, raisin, fig and black olive, smudged and lacking the precision and tension of the 2009 Montrose. The palate is sweet and cloying on the entry, hedonistic and voluminous, yet unequivocally bereft of tension and sense of terroir…