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Don’t Rain on My Parade: Mâconnais 2019/2020 (Nov 2021)

The 2019 Pouilly-Fuissé is a blend of 32 plots from around the village, some on granitic soils and others on marls and clays. It has a crisp nose with scents of apple orchard and orange pith that are focused and lively. The palate is well balanced with lovely grapefruit, orange zest and citrus peel. A…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Vieux-Château-Certan comes across somewhat bretty on the nose, occluding the delineation and complexity (certainly apparent juxtaposed blind against its peers.) The palate is medium-bodied with supple but quite firm tannins that frame the concentrated red fruit laced with black pepper, clove and graphite. It fans out wonderfully on the finish with a long…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good bright red-ruby. Expressive aromas of raspberry, cocoa, minerals and violet; very cabernet franc! Juicy, sappy and intense, with sharply delineated if still youthfully imploded flavors of floral red berries and minerals. Offers truly superb intensity and clarity, with harmonious lively acids giving the sweetly spicy red fruit flavors noteworthy penetration and cut. Highly perfumed…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

Once again, the 2012 Dom Pérignon is stellar. It’s a potent, tightly-wound Champagne. That should serve it well in the future, but today, the 2012 is not terribly expressive. Time in the glass brings out striking aromatic top notes and plenty of energy to match. Low yields, down 30-40%, produced a wild, dynamic Champagne endowed…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pibran is matured for 18 months in 50% new oak. It maintains the mixture of black and blue fruit on the nose, vivacious and generous, with floral and lavender scents that emerge with time. The palate is very smooth and harmonious, offering plenty of graphite-infused black fruit and a precise finish. The headiness…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pibran is fabulous, just as it was en primeur. Juicy, rich and expansive in this vintage, Pibran offers terrific richness and verve. Dark cherry, spice, new leather and cedar build as this stylish Pauillac shows off its considerable charms. The 2018 is unquestionably extroverted. It is also shamelessly delicious.