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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Mouton-Rothschild has a very backward bouquet that is clearly nowhere near its drinking plateau, unfolding reluctantly with cedar and pencil box infused black fruit. Glimpses of pressed rose petal unfurl with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a mixture of red and black fruit, and veins of blue. Very harmonious…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Lagrange is deep in color and sports a bouquet very similar to the bottle poured at the vertical, resplendent with blackberry, pencil box and a discreet ash scent. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, and maybe less brutish than the previous bottle, displaying more cohesion and less austerity on the finish. This…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(includes 76% cabernet sauvignon, the highest percentage ever at Lagrange) Deep, saturated bright ruby-purple. Brooding aromas of cassis, violet and cedar (hibernating now, says Ducasse). Very densely packed but very closed and extremely backward. Nearly painful flavors of black fruits, violet and menthol. Finishes very firm and very long, with powerful tannins supported by the…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(a good percentage of this négociant bottling is from purchased fruit, as opposed to purchased wine): White peach, white flowers and spices on the lively nose. Delivers an outstanding combination of richness and brightness, with vibrant lemony acidity framing and energizing the flavors of stone fruits, lemon and acacia flower. This very long, palate-staining Batard…

Brunello di Montalcino and Other Red Wines of Tuscany… (Jul 1998)

If this weren’t a wine with a long track record for excellence, I wouldn’t even list it, let alone write a detailed tasting note. But something is amiss. I tasted this wine from three different bottles, on two different days at VinItaly at the stand of the producer Italian distributor, Meregalli. All were from the…

Best New Releases From Italy (Jan 1999)

Dark red. Sappy aroma of blackberry, creme de cassis, chocolate, smoke and nuts. Lush and smooth in the mouth, with a restrained sweetness and a hint of tobacco. Quite firm and structured, but currently showing limited richness. Finishes with substantial, slightly dry tannins. This grew sweeter in the uncorked bottle and may yet blossom with…