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In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1986 Latour is a vintage that has constantly left me disappointed in context of the growing season and the performance of its peers such as Mouton-Rothschild or Léoville Las Cases. This last bottle did nothing to change my opinion. It just feels enervated on the nose, as if it cannot be bothered to offer…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

Though I have not been a huge fan of the 1986 Latour, this is undoubtedly the best bottle I have encountered. Deep and youthful, it offers black fruit and a strong stony/dusty element that clarifies with aeration, though it remains slightly disjointed. The palate is medium-bodied and solid with its gritty tannin. Firm with a…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Bahans Haut-Brion is the second wine from Haut-Brion, known today as Le Clarence. A huge, virile red, the 2005 exudes intensity from start to finish. Black cherry, plum, smoke, tobacco, gravel and cured meats blast across the palate. The wine’s richness, heft and power are truly remarkable. Today, the 2005 comes across as…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep red-ruby. Sexy aromas of black raspberry, smoke and minerals. Fat, plush and seamless in the mouth, with a nicely restrained sweetness to the slowly mounting flavors of raspberry and smoke. The compelling ripeness and sweetness of fruit of the vintage come through loud and clear on the back end.

Cellar Favorite: 1988 Ausone (Apr 2019)

The 1988 Ausone shows extremely well after 31 years. It remains lucid in colour with little ageing on the rim. The bouquet is clean, with so much fruit that it comes across more like a 1989 than a 1988. It sports none of the leanness or greenness one sometimes finds with Right Bank 1988s, just…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1988 Petrus is a vintage that I have encountered in two occasions. It is a forerunner for the 1989 and 1990 and frankly, it cannot hold a torch to those twin titans. In retrospect, one can see it more as a small progression from the capable 1987. It has a youthful hue with less…