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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(100% merlot; 14.2% alcohol; 3.8 pH; 40 ha/hl; a 65% selection; 50% new oak) Fully saturated ruby-red. Mindblowingly intense, utterly hedonistic nose redolent of sexy, superripe blueberry and blackcurrant complicated by sweet Oriental spices, cocoa and coffee. Then creamy-smooth and downright voluptuous, with superconcentrated blackberry, blueberry and plum flavors complemented by delicate smoke and flint…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Petrus is surprisingly backward on the nose compared directly with the 2009 Le Pin, demanding a lot of coaxing. Initially broody, it then begins to flourish with wild strawberry, cranberry, crushed stone and black truffle, all beautifully defined but very succinct. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins lending an almost cashmere texture….

Chianti Classico: More Than Meets The Eye (Sep 2020)

The 2016 Flaccianello della Pieve is a truly special, moving wine. There’s not much more to say. The 2016 was epic when I tasted it last year. It is every bit as memorable today. Beautifully layered, the 2016 possesses remarkable finesse and power. All of the natural intensity of Panzano’s Conca d’Oro comes through in…

Vinous Table: Where Do I Eat In Burgundy? (Jan 2024)

Poured blind, the 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a very attractive bouquet with dried honey, white peaches, apricots and touches of beeswax. There is still a touch of oak to be assimilated, yet there is focus and precision here. The palate is very well balanced with fine depth, not the most complex Corton-Charlemagne, though it…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy Additions (Jan 2021)

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, one of Boillot’s strongest wines, has a delightful bouquet with well-defined scents of dried honey, hazelnut and crushed rock, quite Meursault-like in style. The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp acidity, not amazingly complex overall, yet I admire its tension and length, with quite a persistent spicy aftertaste….

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Chablis Vaillon 1er Cru is a very pretty wine that can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring. Apricot, lemon confit, chamomile, mint and dried flowers all grace this attractive, inviting Chablis. Floral notes develop later, adding lift and brightness, while saline underpinnings lend a palpable sense of energy. This is such a terrific expression…