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2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Superb floral lift to the aromas of stone and citrus fruits, minerals and smoke. Compellingly silky, even thick, on entry, but with terrific inner-mouth mineral lift shaping and intensifying the wine’s lemon and floral flavors. Dense with dry extract, this outstanding 2016 premier cru leaves the salivary glands quivering on the very long, slow-building finish….

Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

The 2008 Brut Millesime offers considerable richness from the predominance of Pinot in the blend along with the freshness of the vintage. Dried flowers, red stone fruit, cinnamon, chamomile, pear and slate are all highly expressive in the glass. The 2008 is generous and expansive on the palate, with considerable power and plenty of energy…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Complex aromas of baked apple, vanilla, licorice, toast, baking spices and butterscotch. Rich, dry and lively in the mouth; a medium-to-full-bodied wine with compelling ripeness of fruit. Finishes with very good persistence. Not quite as penetrating as a bottle tasted a year ago, but still a terrific Champagne.

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Latour has an archetypal nose for the estate with black fruit, gravel and graphite notes, touches of pencil box developing with aeration, determined to put distance between itself and the Mouton-Rothschild alongside. The palate is medium-bodied and cohesive with a gentle grip. It is smooth in texture and not a complex Latour, yet…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 1995 Château Margaux is a vintage perhaps unfairly over-shadowed by the imperious 1996. That is unfair because the late Paul Pontallier crafted a great First Growth this year. It has a very impressive, quintessential Margaux bouquet that is undimmed after 23 years: black fruit, graphite, crushed violets and a touch of tobacco. If anything…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Excellent deep ruby color. Very complex aromas of blackcurrant, wild plum, violets, minerals, tar and smoky oak. Dense and supple, with great sweetness of fruit. Doesn’t have quite the sheer power of the ’96, but the flavors build and build. Substantial tannins are chewier than those of the ’96 but hit the palate later. 1986…