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Best New Wines from the Central Loire (May 2010)

(for 500 ml.) Vivid gold. Wildly complex scents of yellow peach, nectarine, orange marmalade and candied flowers, with complicating honey and mineral qualities. Lush but penetrating citrus and pit fruit flavors boast remarkable depth and show unlikely elegance, with zesty citrus notes adding lift and clarity to the dense fruit. Nervy lime and pear notes…

Dom Ruinart at Cru, New York (Oct 2008)

The 1990 Dom Ruinart (original release) was also pretty, although it revealed a slightly flabby and unfocused personality compared to the more vibrant wines of the night.

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

The 2006 Mouton Rothschild is dark, powerful and intense, with firm tannins that need time to soften. This is an especially dark, somber Mouton. Dark black fruit, smoke, menthol gravel and cured meats are some of the signatures. Slight vegetal notes underpin the fruit. I am not sure the 2006 has enough freshness to be…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright ruby-red. Vibrant aromas of cassis, blueberry, cedar and graphite. Wonderfully pure and silky in the mouth, with great subtle, slow-building intensity and superb energy and thrust. A real essence of cabernet sauvignon and Mouton terroir This one really rattled my brain-in the gentlest way. As silky as it is, it possesses bottomless depths. Finishes…

Roederer Cristal Rosé: A Journey Through Time 1976-2007 (May 2015)

The 1995 Cristal Rosé (Late Disgorged) is an excellent choice for drinking now, as it has pretty much reached the point where further improvement in the cellar is unlikely. At the same time, the 1995 shows no signs of fading; rather it gives the impression it will stay at this plateau for at least a…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Very pale rose-gold color. Singular nose hints at wild strawberry, raspberry and toast, along with exotic hints of mango and pineapple. Very dry and elegant, but with extraordinary intensity of flavor and incipient creaminess. An extremely young wine with the material and structure to develop for another 15 years or more. A great rose.