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Domaine Leroy: The 2014s from Bottle (Mar 2017)

The 2014 Clos de Vougeot emerges from three parcels that span the upper, mid-slope and lower parts of this large vineyard. Dense and powerful, but also quite a bit less polished than the other Grand Crus, the Clos de Vougeot is nevertheless endowed with notable personality. A rush of dark red cherry, plum, smoke and…

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Medium ruby-red. Highly complex, slightly liqueur-like aromas of crystallized red fruits, coffee, smoke and earth. Sweet, chewy, dense and deep, with complicating notes of mocha, truffle and menthol. A very primary wine with terrific verve. Like the Clos de la Roche, this has superb chewy depth of flavor. Quite powerful, even a bit youthfully aggressive…

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(there’s just a single 114-liter barrel of this juice; malo finished): Strong spice notes of nutmeg and mace are lifted by a pronounced floral element. Tightly wound and penetrating; much less opulent and silky today than the Chevalier-Montrachet, showing outstanding cut and ripeness to the citrus, stone fruit and spice flavors. This very discreet wine…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a tightly wound, intense bouquet of black fruit, briar, crushed limestone and a brushing of chalk dust. The palate is medium-bodied with hints of licorice and menthol on the entry. Quite an exotic Echézeaux, more so than the 2019, it has great breadth and grip toward the finish. This…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Full red-ruby. Pure, subtly perfumed aromas of blackberry, spices and licorice. Dense but youthfully linear, showing lovely finesse of texture to its tight-grained flavors of dark fruits, spices and saline minerality lifted by violet. With its compact kernel of fruit, this is neither sweet nor easygoing today, but its precision and definition call to mind…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos de La Roche Grand Cru has a delineated, succinct bouquet, the 25% whole bunch seamlessly integrated with blackberry, briar and faint traces of dark chocolate. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins and nice focus, leading to quite a strict, linear finish. I can imagine this requiring cellaring for several years before…