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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Aux Echanges includes 50% whole cluster for the first time. I like the precision and focus on the nose, although it feels a little backward at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, fresh and silky-smooth, with a nicely detailed finish. This is an impressive village cru that should age…

2018 Brunello di Montalcino: The Rubik’s Cube Vintage (Dec 2022)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is a model of grace and refinement, with exotic spice nuances that blow off to reveal wild strawberries, rosemary, dried flowers and worn leather. It’s unbelievably lifted and refined for the vintage, with a wave of saline-tinged red fruits that cascade across a core of zesty acidity. There’s an edginess…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Dark red. Sappy red fruits and smoke on the nose. Cedary, minerally and uncompromisingly dry, with strong acidity giving the flavors penetration and cut. Finishes firmly tannic, with very good grip. This is always a second wine with character, rather than simply a receptacle for the fruit that doesn’t make it into the grand vin

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2004 Dom Pérignon P2 is precise and wonderfully refined, just like the first release. There’s a hint of reduction from extended time on the cork as well as a feeling of effusiveness that is so appealing. Readers will find a super-classic DP. Dried flowers, brioche, apricot preserves, sage, mint and chamomile are seamless in…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2004 Dom Pérignon P2 is now entering its first plateau of maturity, where the first notes of aromatic development are present. Hints of marzipan, lemon confit dried flowers, mint, spice and baked apple tart lend notable complexity throughout. Soft contours add to its open-knit, creamy personality.

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(78% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, 2% petit verdot and 1% cabernet franc; 13.5% alcohol) Bright, dark red. Floral, fruity aromas of red berries, plum, red cherry and minerals, with the fruit element intensifying with aeration. In the mouth, bright red berry and sweet spice flavors are joined by a strong mineral quality and lifted by…