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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Mouton-Rothschild is very deep in colour. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry, wild hedgerow, sous-bois and touches of peppermint. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. There is incredible focus to this First Growth with fabulous mineralité and tension on the finish. Tasted from an…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Deep ruby-red. Great soil-driven aromas of cassis, licorice, graphite and loam. Hugely dense, seamless and concentrated, but with ripe, harmonious acidity giving definition to the plush flavors of creme de cassis, bitter chocolate, minerals and loam. Most impressive today on the mounting, palate-staining finish, which is almost painful yet manages to convey a light touch….

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

Medium red. Aromas of blackberry, minerals, licorice and fresh herbs; showed a torrefaction quality as it opened in the glass. Broad, rich and chocolatey but not overly sweet, with flavors of cherry pit, cola and minerals. Conveys an impression of solid extract but comes across as rather backward and tight today, owing to its mineral…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2000 Vieux Château Certan, which contains 20% Cabernet Franc, shows minor aging on the rim. The bouquet has opened up since I last tasted it, predominantly black fruit laced with licorice, less of the chimney soot aspect that I observed six years ago, though with a light Earl Grey scent. The palate is medium-bodied…

Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival 2017 (Nov 2017)

I am surprised by how delicate the 2002 La Tâche is, especially from magnum. Bright, crystalline and nuanced, the 2002 speaks more to energy and finesse than the more powerful, resonant expression of the year that is found in so many other 2002s. I like the 2002 a lot, but I don’t love it.

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Good deep, bright red. Dee p aromas of cherry, raspberry, minerals and Asian spices, lifted by a floral quality. Fat, sweet and full but lively; offers great volume without any undue weight. This shows exciting inner-palate energy and finishes with a sexy, deep core of spice. Very pretty, and very long. A superb showing today.