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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Pale yellow. An enticing blend of red berries, butter and toast on the nose; this settled down to an earthy, smoky character that reminded me of Batard-Montrachet. Full and rich, with flavors of musky yellow plum and ripe pear accented by crisp mineral notes. Really long and vibrant on the building finish, if not as…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Light gold color. Textbook Bollinger aromas of toast, lees and buttered toast, along with suggestions of fresh mushroom and white truffle. This is really about earthy tones, not fruit. Thick and fat to the point of being oily in texture, with deeply pitched sweet cream and butter tones and a slow-to-unfold singed pineapple flavor. For…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Cos d’Estournel has a fresher nose than the 2000, showing more focus and vigor and delivering black cherries mixed with fig, blood orange and light cigar box aromas. Side by side, this is certainly more youthful. The palate is well balanced with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, and fine grip and…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Bright ruby-red. Vibrant, complex aromas of cassis, graphite, eucalyptus and tobacco. Fat and sweet but shapely, with impressive density and underlying structure. Flavors of plum, mint, roasted nuts and sweet oak. Fairly full for young Cos, but quite suave. Finishes with firm but smooth tannins and excellent grip. Better than the 2000.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Medium ruby. Cassis, chocolate, tar and menthol on the nose. A bit reduced in the mouth, but fat and full for this property, with sweet flavors of cassis and licorice. Not particularly nuanced or refined, but offers good breadth and ripeness. The tannins are dusty but not dry. I can’t recall the last time an…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Cos d’Estournel was picked from 22 September to 6 October and consists of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon and 45% Merlot. Apparently the property was very content with the merlot at the time. It has a modest bouquet that to be frank is surpassed by the 1988 at the moment, the older vintage possessing more…