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Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is wild and spunky, presenting a mix of sweet rose and raspberry contrasted by savory herbs, hints of sawdust and white pepper. There are depths of tart red berries, spices and minerals on the palate, drenching the senses in primary concentration, yet zesty acids maintain notable balance. A coating of…

The Rise of Rosso di Montalcino (Oct 2022)

The 2020 Rosso di Montalcino Ignaccio bursts from the glass with a bright and vibrant mix of spiced cherries, exotic red florals and cinnamon sugar. While elegant to the extreme, there’s an energy within that stimulates the palate, as ripe berries and a hint of crushed violet candies wash across the palate. The 2020 maintains…

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 2000 Ornellaia (magnum) is a pretty, well-balanced offering with good concentration and complexity. The 2000 lacks some of the visceral thrill of top vintages, but it is an excellent choice for near-term drinking. In 2000 Ornellaia is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 18 months in French oak…

New Wines from the Tuscan Coast (Jul 2003)

(60% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot and 15% cabernet franc) Very dark ruby with a purplish core. Red and black fruits mingle with spicy clove on the nose, followed by raspberry jam, chocolate and cinnamon on the palate. Even fresher and more delineated than the 1999 bottling, with superb focus and concentration. Very ripe tannins envelop…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(14. 6% alcohol). Full red-ruby. Very ripe nose offers roasted meat, smoke, tobacco, underbrush and mint. Superripe, silky and lush, with a slightly roasted fruit character. Not a hugely complex or deep vintage for Ornellaia, and likely to evolve relatively quickly, but the wine’s uncommonly lush, velvety texture is more than worth the price of…

Best New Wines from the Central Loire (May 2010)

(for 500 ml.) Vivid gold. Wildly complex scents of yellow peach, nectarine, orange marmalade and candied flowers, with complicating honey and mineral qualities. Lush but penetrating citrus and pit fruit flavors boast remarkable depth and show unlikely elegance, with zesty citrus notes adding lift and clarity to the dense fruit. Nervy lime and pear notes…