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Further Inroads Into Burgundy 2020 (May 2022)

The 2020 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has quite an open and expressive bouquet with blackberry, crushed rock and undergrowth, almost peaty aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite gritty in texture and tight with a saline finish. This will require 3-4 years. It is a bit abrasive at the…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru offers darker fruit on the nose, confit raspberry mixed with cassis scents, maybe showing a little overripeness? The volatility begins to impede after 10 minutes in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite velvety smooth with an attractive spiciness that comes through…

Veneto: The Land of Opportunity (Mar 2023)

With the 2016 still being held for release down the road as it slowly comes into focus, today it’s the 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Monte Lodoletta that is being released into the market. This is dark, sultry and almost animalistic in nature, as crushed fall leaves and earth tones open the experience, giving way to…

Alto Piemonte & Valtellina, Continued… (Sep 2020)

Tasted next to the Valferana, the 2016 Gattinara Vigna Molsino is much more nervous in feel. Iron, dried herbs, sweet dried cherry, mint, crushed rocks, white pepper and earthy notes give the Molsino a good deal of aromatic complexity to match its intense, saline-infused minerality. Today, though, the tannins and acids are almost overpowering. Readers…

2016 Barolo, Part 2 & Late Releases (Oct 2020)

The 2015 Barbaresco Pajè is the most nuanced and complete of the four wines in this lower tier of vineyard designates. Deceptively light in body, the 2015 possesses striking complexity and dimensions. Breadth and power are implied more than overtly stated. Clean, minerally notes punctuate the finish. The Pajè packs a serious punch. It will…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is fragrant, delineated and coiled up at first, although it only takes a few swirls of the glass before it awakens. Crushed stone infuses the red fruit, and hints of oyster shells emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied and very cohesive, with finely-chiselled tannins and just…