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Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Berliquet is another step in a direction favoring finesse over the burly power that often marked the wines of the past. Delicate and nuanced, with pretty floral top notes, this mid-weight Saint-Émilion is a charmer. Drink it over the next decade or so.

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

When I tasted the barrel sample, the 2020 Berliquet was not firing on all cylinders. Now in bottle, the nose is still a bit wanting, with light brambly red fruit and earthy scents, just missing some cohesion and the intensity of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a gentle grip and a…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Berliquet is the first wine that shows a real change in direction under its new ownership and the team headed by Nicolas Audebert. Bright and chiseled with energy this mid-weight Saint-Émilion is quite promising. Crushed red flowers, mint, sweet red berry fruit. There is still a bit of grittiness in the tannin, but…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Berliquet has an open, quite generous bouquet of high-toned, quite floral aromas (iris and violet petals) mixed with Dorset plum, bilberry and wild strawberry. The palate is medium-bodied with a medicinal, menthol-tinged opening, ripe and again, generous. The candied finish just needs to show a little more restraint. Fine, but it will have…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

The 2015 Sassicaia is incredibly elegant, perfumed and light on its feet. It has become even more wonderfully refined since I last tasted it. Sweet floral and spiced notes lead into a core of sweet red and purplish berry fruit. When it was younger, the 2015 was quite potent. Today, my impression is that, while…

New Releases from Champagne (Dec 2011)

The 2002 Brut La Grande Année is marvelous. The 2002 is an understated Grande Année that caresses the palate with layers of effortless, weightless fruit. The mousse is exceptionally fine, which adds to the impression of total elegance. This is a relatively bright, floral Grande Année with plenty of aromatic lift, inner perfume and no…