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Veneto: Stunning Landscapes, Stunning Wines (Mar 2014)

The 2001 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico is one of the more vintages of the Recioto, although in subsequent tastings the wine has begun to blossom more fully. Silky, layered and exceptionally polished on the palate, the 2001 flows with the essence of dark cherry, plum, licorice, dried flowers, savory herbs, menthol and spices. This is…

Exploring the Best of Northern Italy (Oct 2007)

The 2001 Amarone is on another level entirely. It exudes notable warmth and ripeness, with profound layers of Venezuelan bitter chocolate, herbs, licorice, smoke, dark fruit and toasted oak. Made in an explosive style, this palate-staining Amarone possesses remarkable detail and nuance for such a big wine. It has been phenomenal on the two occasions…

Exploring the Best of Northern Italy (Oct 2007)

Dal Forno’s 2002 Valpolicella is a massively endowed effort revealing backward dark fruit, new leather, spices, herbs, roasted coffee beans and toasted oak on an imposing, tannic frame. Made in a super-concentrated style – even by Dal Forno’s standards – it will require several years of cellaring for the tannins to soften somewhat, although it…

Italy Odds & Ends – 2017 (May 2017)

Quintarelli’s 2003 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva does not appear to have budged much over the last few years. Still intense and tannic, the 2003 will benefit from some aeration as it is a forbidding wine. Super-ripe dark stone fruit, chocolate, leather and licorice notes abound, but as is so often the case with these…

The Best of Northern Italy (Oct 2008)

The deeply-colored 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico offers tons of dark fruit, spices, chocolate, licorice and menthol. This chunky, rustic Amarone possesses plenty of persistence on the palate and will appeal most to readers who appreciate traditionally made wines.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Medium red. Explosive, superripe aromas of marzipan, truffle, underbrush and nutmeg. Fat, rich and deep, with an almost confectionery sweetness supported by huge, toothdusting tannins. Intriguing notes of mocha and brown spices. I find this less classy and elegant today than the Asili but more powerfully structured for aging. I can understand Giacosa’s decision to…