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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Rauzan-Ségla has a very fine bouquet with tightly packed blackberry and wild strawberry fruit, melted tar and pencil shavings, leaning a little towards Saint-Julien in style (like the Giscours.) The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, gorgeous red berry fruit laced with all spice and cumin, gently fanning out towards the grippy but…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot) Bright ruby. Knockout nose of cassis, black pepper, minerals and cedar just screams Pauillac. Enters the mouth sweet, creamy and pure, displaying very rich, dense flavors of black fruit, minerals and dried herbs, with lively, integrated acidity keeping the wine from coming across…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Pontet-Canet is noticeably deep in colour compared to its peers. This is unusually ripe and sweet on the nose, more red than black fruit, maybe a little jammy and confit-like. I would never guess this was a 2010 Left Bank. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy mouthfeel, plenty of graphite tinged red…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Superripe, soil-driven aromas of currant, plum, cherry pie, mocha and minerals; almost liqueur-like in its ripeness, in a 1947 way. Then huge, sweet and plush, with great volume and depth to its flavors of cassis, flowers, minerals, game and olive. Finishes with big, ripe, horizontal tannins and great mounting length. This remarkably thick…

Central Spain: Tempranillo and Beyond (Dec 2015)

Opaque purple. Dark berry compote and smoky Indian spices on the intensely perfumed nose, which is complicated by notes of incense and licorice pastille. Deep, sappy and broad on the palate, offering sweet flavors of black and blue fruit liqueur and spicecake. Gains energy as well as depth with aeration, finishing with powerful notes of…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1996 Lynch-Bages is showing some bricking on the rim. It seems fully mature on the nose with blurred red fruit, autumn leaves and undergrowth. A light ferrous scent emerges with time, later a touch of eucalyptus. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a little dry and austere, and fine acidity, but I feel…