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2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(as with the Bâtard, the yield was not much more than ten hectoliters per hectare): Very pure aromas of lemon, lime, white flowers and liquid stone. Quite rich and concentrated but tight and youthfully clenched. There was very little fruit in 2016 from the upper, more minerally part of the vineyard, noted Brice de la…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

Bright, dark red with ruby highlights. Black raspberry, blackberry, red licorice, game and flinty minerality on the multifaceted nose. Plush and fine-grained but with excellent firming minerality and medicinal reserve. Turns much tighter and tauter on the back end, finishing with saline minerality, firm tannins and terrific lift. This fruit was picked with 12% natural…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the crop level averaged just 26.5 hectoliters per hectare but Roumier had frost issues only in his vines closer to the village of Chambolle, with one of his northern plots–on red soil–yielding 40 h/h): Bright medium red. Sexy, slightly high-toned aromas of raspberry, mocha and minerals; but a bit less floral than usual at this…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is showing more oak on the nose compared to Bruno Clair’s Bonnes-Mares tasted alongside, although there is clearly sufficient fruit behind to support it: blackberry, blueberry and a touch of boysenberry. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit laced with black tea and a touch of iodine, then a…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright red. Knockout nose offers scents of black raspberry, cherry, rose petal, smoky minerality and sexy sweet oak. Tactile, ripe and spicy, with pepper and spice high notes accentuating the wine’s sharp definition. Redder its in fruit character than the Clos des Ruchottes, and even finer-grained in the middle palate, but also more tannic on…

Vinous Table: Le Pot d’Etain, L’Isle-sur-Serein, France (Sep 2020)

The 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin from Armand Rousseau showcased the beauty of this true Burgundy lover’s vintage. It offered crisp, delineated raspberry and wild strawberry fruit laced with sous-bois. The palate displayed exquisite balance, obviously endowed with less concentration than the equivalent 2015 or 2016, yet nimble and lithe, and so precise and detailed on its carefree…