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Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2005 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12 after cool nights had led to a slow accretion of concentration. “There was a lot of drought in 2005,” Alexandre Thienpont recalls, “and it was a season a bit like 1982.” This has a winsome bouquet, more powerful than the preceding 2004, as you would…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2005 Vieux Château Certan was picked from September 12 after cool nights had led to a slow accretion of concentration. “There was a lot of drought in 2005,” Alexandre Thienpont recalls, “and it was a season a bit like 1982.” This has a winsome bouquet, more powerful than the preceding 2004, as you would…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

The 2016 Sassicaia is one of the most powerful, imposing young Sassicaias I can remember tasting. Explosive and vibrant with stunning depth, the 2016 possesses off-the-charts aromatic intensity, richness and structure, all in a mid-weight style that is so distinctive. Plum, lavender, rose petal, spice and mint all build into the explosive, deep finish in…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Mouton-Rothschild, which Philippe Dhalluin told me was harvested in one week, has a forward, showy bouquet with more upfront black fruit than the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild I tasted an hour earlier. Blackberry mixes with hints of star anise and light tobacco notes, conveying energy and fine delineation if not the profundity of the greatest…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full medium ruby. Currant, meat, mocha and grilled nuts on the nose. Lush, sweet and smooth, with just enough vinosity to maintain its balance. A vin de plaisir whose lovely fruit and sweet, harmonious tannins make it very easy to taste today (the chateau carried out a gentler, shorter extraction in ’99). But doesn’t have…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Léoville-Poyferré has an open nose with dusky black fruit, melted tar and a touch of pencil box; more fruit here compared to other Saint-Julien wines. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rustic tannins, a touch of blackberry pastilles, tobacco, allspice and light graphite notes towards the Japanese nori-tinged finish. Probably reaching its peak…