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Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 l’Église-Clinet has a brilliantly defined bouquet with echoes of the equally showstopping Trotanoy that I tasted just a couple of hours before. Crystalline red fruit and hints of blood orange intermingle with crushed stone and truffle. The palate is medium-bodied with an immediately seductive, satin-like texture belying the backbone of this Pomerol. Lightly…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Full, saturated red-ruby. Knockout nose combines redcurrant, tropical chocolate, leather, woodsmoke and nutty oak with exotic chocolate mint and coffee liqueur; still manages to retain floral lift even in this beastly vintage. Then wonderfully fat, sweet and full, even if it comes across as almost heavy following the ineffable 2005 and 2004 examples. But relatively…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Château Margaux is slightly bricking on the rim, quite deep in color. The nose has retained satisfying freshness. Dusty red bricks and gravel scents infuse the mainly red fruit. Fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, harmonious, fresh with good tension and touches of white pepper and clove. It approaches full…

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

A wine of exquisite beauty, the 2004 Dom Ruinart Brut Rosé has the pedigree to drink well for several decades. The 2004 is an especially vinous, textured Rosé. The berry, floral, spice and mineral-drenched flavors are finely sketched in this dramatic, strikingly beautiful Rosé from Ruinart.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Bracing, youthful aromas of lime, minerals, menthol and stone; pure and subtle. An urgent, vibrant, very dry Champagne that shows remarkable power and thrust in the context of its vintage. Very concentrated, tactile wine, with brisk citrus, almond and mineral flavors really clinging to the palate on the very long, lemony aftertaste. This brand-new release…

Vintage Retrospective: The 2010 Napa Valley Cabernets (May 2020)

Deep ruby-red to the rim. Deep, complex scents of black cherry, black raspberry, cassis, soil, minerals, pipe tobacco and cedar. Enters the mouth utterly seamless and suave but extremely primary and backward; more savory than sweet in spite of the fruit's full ripeness. Sharply delineated but youthfully backward flavors of dark berries, black cherry, licorice,…