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2006 and 2005 White Burgundies (Sep 2007)

Expressive aromas of peach, butter and vanilla. Dense, chewy and dry, with notes of flowers and marzipan and impressive minerally depth. Classic rich-but-dry white Burgundy, finishing with excellent length. Bottled just two weeks before I tasted it, and more impressive today than when I sampled it from barrel a year ago.

2016 Bordeaux: It’s Now or Never, Baby (Apr 2017)

The 2016 Magnan La Gaffelière offers good up-front depth and intensity, but it is ultimately penalized by hard tannins and slightly underripe flavors that give it an awkward, vegetal quality out of character with the personality of the vintage.

The 2009 Red Burgundies (May 2011)

The 2009 Griotte-Chambertin is sweet, sensual and inviting. Deceptively medium in body, the wine shows plenty of density. Flowers, cinnamon and menthol emerge in the glass as this sensual wine flows through to the finish. There is just a hint of rusticity on the close; otherwise, this is a fine, generous Burgundy.

2004 White Burgundies (Sep 2006)

Bright yellow. Pretty aromas of soft citrus fruits, lime, minerals and herbs, with hints of nuts and truffle. Fat and sweet, with lovely peachy fruit framed by ripe acids. Finishes with good breadth and Meursault-typical notes of vanilla, hazelnut and oatmeal.

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Trotanoy has a delineated and nicely focused bouquet, maybe not the most energetic you will find, though I appreciate the pencil box and sage aromatics filtering through the red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, well judged acidity, fleshy and very well balanced with impressive precision on the finish. This is…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Saturated medium ruby. Very deep aromas of cassis and bitter chocolate are complicated by sweet spices and peppery underbrush. Big and broad in the mouth but showing a slightly cool personality, offering mineral and floral flavors that are energetic and pure. A bit youthfully austere today, with firm acidity and gripping tannins not yet completely…