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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Latour is the most consistent of the First Growths in this auspicious vintage. Tasted from both bottle and magnum in the UK in recent months, this note comes from an ex-château magnum tasted at a private dinner in Bordeaux. It exudes class and majesty on the nose with its copious but brilliantly focused…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1982 Latour has always been a quintessential Bordeaux and a quintessential Latour. This is just as composed and detailed as the finest bottles that I have encountered, bridled with captivating blackberry, graphite and cedar aromas that are brilliantly focused. Perhaps it is not quite as showy as it was a few years ago, yet…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Dark red, with an amber rim. Liqueur-like aromas of plum, roasted meat, mocha, tobacco, truffle and burnished oak. Fat, lush and smooth, with explosive fruit and powerful underlying backbone. Massive but not at all heavy. Wonderfully tactile wine, finishing with big, chewy-but-ripe tannins and great persistence. (My second bottle showed even more class and delineation,…

Vinous Table: Emilia, Bangkok, Thailand (May 2024)

The 1995 Haut-Brion is currently strutting its stuff: dark berry fruit, Earl Grey tea and warm red brick flourish on the nose, classic yet vibrant and compelling. The palate has reached its plateau after nigh 30 years, with finely embroidered tannins, impressive fruit and weight, yet with First Growth’s signature sophistication and charm on the…

Vinous Table: Emilia, Bangkok, Thailand (May 2024)

The 1995 Haut-Brion is currently strutting its stuff: dark berry fruit, Earl Grey tea and warm red brick flourish on the nose, classic yet vibrant and compelling. The palate has reached its plateau after nigh 30 years, with finely embroidered tannins, impressive fruit and weight, yet with First Growth’s signature sophistication and charm on the…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Dark red. Understated aromas of dried strawberry, redcurrant and garrigue complicated by a whiff of black tea. A fairly restrained midweight, atypical in this vintage, with dried red berry and mocha flavors. Finishes focused and taut, with dusty tannins and hints of red plum and licorice. Those who fear the 2003 bogeyman can safely give…