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The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright red-ruby. Pure, high-pitched nose offers blueberry, dark chocolate, menthol and cedary oak. Suave, sweet and serious, with lovely inner-mouth lift and energy and sneaky density of texture. Hints of pepper and herbs serve to perk up the wine. Not a particularly chocolatey style for Branaire. Finishes with a lovely light touch and plenty of…

Barbaresco: The Highs & Lows of 2016-2020 (Oct 2020)

The 2016 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is the most severe and angular of these wines. It will appeal most to die-hard classicists. Chalk, white pepper, mint and sweet red cherry fruit all grace this chiseled, beautifully translucent Barbaresco. As always, the Ovello needs a number of years in bottle to reveal its charms, which in 2016…

2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Radiance Personified (Nov 2020)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino excites the senses with a wonderfully pure and fruity display of wild strawberries, woodland herbs, wet stone and flowery undergrowth. Both savory and sweet, the textures are like silk, with waves of ripe red fruits and spices which give way to salty minerals, licorice, hints of black tea and a…

2012 & 2013 Barbaresco – A Study in Contrasts (Dec 2015)

The 2012 Barbaresco Asili is the finest wine I have tasted from Bruno Giacosa since the 2007 vintage. A bright, beautifully translucent red, the 2012 Asili captures the essence of this great site in its perfumed aromatics, silky fruit and understated depth. Hints of orange zest, rose petal, cinnamon and pine are laced into the…

Barbaresco – Out of the Shadows: The 2016s & 2015s (Oct 2018)

The 2014 Barbaresco Rabajà is gorgeous. Powerful and explosive, the 2014 possesses stunning depth and intensity in all of its dimensions. Spice, menthol and orange peel give the 2014 a level of exoticism that is compelling, while beams of searing tannin announce the presence and pedigree of Rabajà. Intense, tannic and yet also very precise,…

2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2017 Barolo Bricco delle Viole is classy and elegant to the core. Medium in body and wonderfully translucent, the 2017 captures all of the finesse of this site. Naturally, the 2017 also shows the ripeness of the year, but it retains its sublime sense of poise. The 2017 Bricco delle Viole is one of…