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2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Branaire-Ducru is sleek, elegant and nuanced. There is more Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc in the blend than in the 2018-2020 period, when the Merlots were especially successful. As a result, the aromatics are absolutely alluring, but the wine is much less forthcoming on the palate. At 12.9% alcohol, the 2021 is a…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 La Gaffelière offers brine-tinged black fruit on the nose, missing a little cohesion at the moment but there is fine presence. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, chewy in the mouth and missing some grace and complexity on the finish. This resembles more the showing from barrel than in bottle so…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

A wine of total finesse, the 2014 La Gaffelière is gorgeous. Dark and pliant on the palate, with striking nuance, it presents a striking interplay of juicy Merlot fruit and lifted, Cabernet Franc-inflected aromatics. Silky tannins add to the wine’s exceptional feel and precision. The blend is 80 % Merlot and 20 % Cabernet Franc….

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 La Gaffelière has a nicely composed, if undemanding, bouquet: a mixture of red and black fruit, forest floor and pencil box. There’s evidence of some fine Cabernet Franc in the blend. The palate is medium-bodied with plush tannins, grainy textures and a fine backbone with tarry black fruit towards the rather austere finish….

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a very well-defined bouquet with marine-tinged black fruit, wet limestone and light violet aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins that frame the pure, silky smooth dark cherry fruit that expands wonderfully on the savory-tinged finish. Just a supremely well-made Echézeaux.

Vinous Table: The Four Horsemen, Brooklyn, NY (Jun 2024)

The 2015 Riesling G-Max from Keller is stunning, endowed with enthralling precision and intensity on the nose without overpowering: crisp mineralité, touches of Crustacea, and hints of yellow plum and linden. Over 30 minutes, it feels like a camera lens being turned into focus. The palate is wonderfully balanced with shimmering, mesmerizing vibrancy, conveying a…