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Gigondas Maintains Its Tempo (Feb 2020)

Bright magenta. Lush red and blue fruit, floral pastille and exotic spice aromas show fine delineation and pick up hints of woodsmoke and incense with air. Seamless and impressively concentrated yet lithe, offering sweet Chambord, boysenberry and spicecake flavors that open up steadily on the back half. The floral note repeats strongly on the very…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Brilliant violet. An expansive bouquet evokes ripe red/blue fruits, incense and olive paste, and a peppery nuance adds spiciness. Concentrated yet lively on the palate, offering sweet black raspberry and boysenberry flavors that pick up a savory hint of smoked meat on the back half. The blue fruit note repeats on a long, smooth, gently…

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2014 Rouge is silky, elegant and nuanced, all of which make it an excellent choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years. Sweet tobacco, cedar, licorice and dried herbs add nuance to the dark cherry fruit in this mid-weight, lithe Languedoc red. Clean, mineral notes infuse the bracing finish with a…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Ampélia is a plump, juicy Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend. I would prefer to drink it sooner rather than later, while the red cherry and pomegranate flavors remain vibrant. My sense is that with a bit less oak, Ampélia could be a meaningfully better and more interesting wine.

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Copper-edged golden-straw. Superripe aromas of damp earth, chocolate and apricot; shows Tokaj-like qualities. Fat, sweet and deep, with almost exotic ripeness in the mouth. Honeyed and very ripe. Gives an almost saline impression of extract. Finishes very long, with a note of burnt sugar. Got better and better in the open bottle. Lovely balance.

Cellar Favorite: 1989 Doisy-Védrines (Jul 2023)

The 1989 Doisy-Védrines has long been my pick of older vintages. Castèja served a bottle during primeur this year, a pertinent reminder of its quality and longevity. The 1989 has hardly aged over the last decade. Iridescent in color, it has a captivating bouquet with quince, fig and marmalade scents, beautifully defined and with exquisite…