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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Talbot has a light and fragrant bouquet with red berry fruit, bell pepper and earthy notes, a touch of sage emerging with time. The palate is well balanced with a satisfying succulent on the entry, quite fleshy for a Saint-Julien in this vintage, not complexity but judiciously spiced and lively on the finish….

Cellar Favorite: 1990 Bollinger R.D. Extra Brut (Jan 2016)

A well-stored bottled of the 1990 Bollinger R.D. was at its apogee on New Year’s Eve, although I suppose a British taster might have waited even longer. Bollinger is known for its very full-bodied, dry style—this is dinner-table Champagne—so it came as no surprise that the R.D. bottling from the very rich, ripe 1990 growing…

The Riches and Richness of Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Dec 2019)

Deep brilliant crimson. Aromas of ripe red and dark berries, musky flowers and garrigue develop a spicecake nuance as the wine opens up. Juicy and seamless on the palate, offering sweet black raspberry, cherry compote, licorice and lavender pastille flavors that display superb depth as well as unlikely energy. Doesn’t let up on the impressively…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Moulin Saint Georges has a more austere, introspective bouquet compared to its peers. Despite its tertiary style, there is fruit here; it just needs time to unlock it. The palate is medium-bodied, delineated and refreshingly saline, with fine-grained tannins and a dash of white pepper toward the finish. This is yet another classy…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Moulin Saint-Georges is soft, fruity and easygoing, all of which make it a fine choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years. The blend is 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, but even so, Moulin Saint-Georges is a wine of reserve and nuance. There’s terrific energy and vibrancy here. I…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Gruaud Larose is a vintage that I have only tasted once before, just after bottling. It has a deep, slightly turbid core with just a thin line of bricking on the rim. The nose is a little simple compared to other vintages, but it is undeniably charming with blackberry, sandalwood and a discrete…