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Vertical Tasting of the Nicolás Catena Zapata 1997-2012 (Oct 2016)

(14% alcohol; 6.2 g/l acidity; 3.7 pH): Bright ruby-red. Very expressive, complex aromas of plum, currant, cherry and black olive, complemented by a slightly candied quality. Fat, pliant and deep on the palate, with the dense black fruit flavors given lovely definition by well-integrated acidity and lightly salty minerality. This beautifully balanced wine has the…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Full ruby-red. Superripe aromas of roasted plum, black raspberry, woodsmoke and humus. Dense and rather unevolved, but with sound acidity giving it excellent vinosity. Full, quite dry and serious; the substantial dusty tannins coat the entire palate.

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Medium red. Aromas of musky redcurrant, cherry and coffee, plus an element of spicy oak. Medicinal cherry and spice flavors show good energy but modest flesh. Some oak tannins may be accentuating the skin tannins here. Frédéric Barnier noted that vineyards on the north side of Beaune were generally more frosted (Jadot made only tiny…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Medium red. Aromas of musky redcurrant, cherry and coffee, plus an element of spicy oak. Medicinal cherry and spice flavors show good energy but modest flesh. Some oak tannins may be accentuating the skin tannins here. Frédéric Barnier noted that vineyards on the north side of Beaune were generally more frosted (Jadot made only tiny…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

Containing 50% whole cluster, the 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru underwent a late malolactic, not finishing until September. It has a refined, menthol-tinged bouquet that feels quite complex and focused, incense aromas developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, a little graphite developing toward the precise, sustained finish. It needs a…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1970 Croft Vintage Port has a russet core. The nose is detailed and focused with an attractive bouquet of cooked meats, mulberry, spice and leather. It is light and feminine, although it never really develops the nuance that I was hoping for in the glass. The palate is vigorous and not quite as elegant…