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2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Moderately saturated ruby-red. Explosive aromas of plum, blackberry, tar, cocoa and grilled bread. Sweet and generous but a bit disjointed at the moment. Possesses strong, nicely delineated fruit but seems a bit less stuffed and structured than the ’99.

Vinous Table: La Pagode de Cos & Restaurant Le Gabriel, Paris, France

The 2005 Cos d’Estournel is a real head-turner. What a wine. The soaring, exotic bouquet is immediately alluring. Spice box, new leather, mocha, blackberry, graphite and espresso announce a wine of exotic, beguiling beauty. Each taste reveals a different facet of this great, great wine from proprietor Michel Reybier. Simply put, the 2005 Cos d’Estournel…

Cellar Favorite: Champagne Louis Roederer – Inflection Points

The 1990 Cristal takes us back to another era at Roederer. There is little doubt the 1990 has aged beautifully. At the same time, there is a bit of edginess, of hardness, in the contours that shows just how much quality has soared at Roederer since then. This is the result of a change in…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

One of the highlights of the range this year, the 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques is utterly magnificent. Dark cherry, plum, smoke, licorice and violet notes flesh out in a voluptuous, racy Burgundy endowed with stunning depth and pure pedigree. With time in the glass the flavors flesh out beautifully. The Clos Saint-Jacques is voluptuous and…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

Bright dark red. Deep aromas of black cherry and chocolatey torrefaction show an almost candied ripeness. Broad, sweet and large-scaled, with a saline quality and impressive medicinal reserve to the floral and spice flavors. A rather powerful and ripe yet sappy Clos Saint-Jacques with a slowly mounting, seamless, horizontal finish featuring big, ripe tannins and…

Vinous Table: Elystan Street, London, United Kingdom (Sep 2020)

The second bottle, from an estate I know like the back of my hand, was the 1996 Pontet Canet. One or two people had suggested that this might be past its best; after all, it predates the innovations and application of biodynamics overseen by Alfred Tesseron by several years. On the contrary, it has aged…