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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Léoville Poyferré has an outstanding bouquet with blackberry, mint and cedar aromas, almost Pauillac in style, very dense and with plenty of horsepower. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, saturated tannins that frame layers of blackberry infused with graphite and white pepper. I love the symmetry and control of this Poyferré, in particular…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a very classy bouquet, very focused and detailed with crushed rocks and yellow flowers gently unfolding in the glass. The palate is very well balanced with a peppery opening. Great depth and intensity here as it fans out gloriously towards the finish, clearly a sophisticated Chevalier with a very…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has a kaleidoscopic nose with mineral-rich yellow fruit, chalk and apple blossom, cohering marvelously with aeration. The palate is beautifully balanced, quite powerful with real weight and density. Plenty of extract towards the finish. There is just the right amount of bitterness to keep this edgy. Excellent. Tasted blind at…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Pichon Baron has a fragrant bouquet with well-defined black fruit, cedar and subtle sous-bois aromas, unfolding with a sense of confidence with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, fine acidity, good weight and body. Well-proportioned towards the finish, this is a classy Pauillac and has the edge over Pichon-Lalande at the…

Vinous Table: Ginza Cobau コバウ, Tokyo, Japan (Apr 2019)

The 2012 Pichon Baron is a magnificent wine that exudes freshness on the nose, with razor-sharp graphite notes suffusing the black fruit. The structured, linear palate just “sings” Pauillac; it is not as bold or as ambitious as the 2009 or 2015, yet there is perfect dryness toward the finish that urges you to take…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Pichon-Longueville Baron is wonderfully aromatic and textured in the glass. Scents of smoke, pipe tobacco and cedar meld into a core of intense dark fruit. Pliant and supple, but with considerable underlying structure, the 2012 is likely to drink well for the next two to three decades, perhaps longer, but it is also…