Archives: Product Reviews

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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Blackcurrant, plum, tobacco and black olive nose is more complex and serious than that of either of the foregoing vintages. Thick, grapey and concentrated; still quite primary. This shows the fat and depth of the ’96 vintage in the northern Medoc. Finishes long, with substantial tannins. Impressive.

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts is easily the most reticent and tannic of the three Vosne 1er Crus I tasted. Firm tannins provide the backdrop for an intense, structured Burgundy that will require considerable patience. Iron, smoke, tobacco and dark red fruits inform the incisive finish. The massive tannins will require time to fully soften.

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

(from purchased wine): Bright red, a bit less saturated than the Suchots and Beaux Monts. Slightly reduced aromas of raspberry, strawberry and underbrush are accented by a note of blood orange. Juicy and sharply delineated, with strong stony minerality giving grip to the dark berry and soil flavors. Classy, vibrant and light on its feet,…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(100% merlot) Ruby-red. P erfumed aromas of blackcurrant, plum, mocha, plus a suggestion of graphite. Supple, suave and quite dry; in a distinctly restrained style, with musky oak and mineral elements currently dominating primary red fruit flavors. Finishes smooth and long, but I would have liked a bit more clarity and lift.

In the Sweet Spot: 2001 Brunello di Montalcino (Mar 2021)

The 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano Riserva was tasted from a half-bottle. The 2001 is seductive, with a rich and alluring display of crushed black cherries, plums, balsamic spices, cocoa and sweet pipe tobacco. It is opulent and velvety-smooth in texture, with extremely ripe dark fruits, sweet herbs and zesty acids keeping…

Valdicava: Brunello di Montalcino 1988-2004 (Nov 2008)

The 2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano is another remarkable wine. It is a ripe, ample Brunello with tons of fruit. Compared to the broad-shouldered 1999, the 2001 possesses a touch greater detail and more finesse in its tannins. This is a beautifully delineated, chiseled wine of the highest level.