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2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Labégorce is powerful yet nuanced, and wonderfully complete. Cedar, tobacco, mint, dried herbs and licorice grace this wine of tremendous complexity. While it is towering in its size, richness and intensity, the 2017 is also surprisingly elegant. Creamy, ample and flavorful, this is a very good wine with rather pretty floral notes that…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Labégorce is aged for 14 months in 45% new oak. This has an attractive bouquet with brambly red berry fruit, cedar and subtle dark chocolates scents. It is clean and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, not the most powerful Margaux in this vintage, a little dusty on the finish but…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(90% merlot, the rest cabernets; 14.5% alcohol; 90 IPT) Ruby-purple with inky highlights. Enticing Pomerol aromas of violet, cocoa, coffee and sweet spices complicated by smoked meat and iron. Supple and smooth on entry, with lovely red berry and black cherry flavors joined on the back by spicy plum component. Starts smooth, but turns chalky,…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright ruby. Sweet aromas of black raspberry, dried blueberry, cooking spices and toffee. Plush, sweet and intriguing, with dried berry and dried flower flavors dominating. The long finish features chewy tannins but could use a bit more vigor.

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gazin has a very concentrated, high-toned bouquet with Merlot firmly in the driving seat, a mixture of black and blue fruit. The palate is rounded on the entry with supple tannin, succulent and glossy in style with macerated black cherries and salted liquorice towards the finish. This needs another year or two in…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gazin has a perfumed, quite floral bouquet with copious wild strawberry and boysenberry fruit, singed leather and undergrowth aromas coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, perhaps a little rustic compared to its peers. Earthier and a little more angular towards the finish, but I quite appreciate that…