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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Badette has a pure, gorgeous nose of multilayered black cherries, blueberry, menthol and light truffle scents; it just blossoms with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and a fine bead of acidity, quite streamlined toward the finish and displaying impressive tension. Maybe this intends to be a longer-term Saint-Émilion than I…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

“The 2018 Gazin is an attractive, understated Pomerol built more on persistence than on volume. Cedar, iron, dried flowers, spice, new leather and scorched earth accents add quite a bit of character. Bright saline notes punctuate the vibrant, salivating finish. A few years in bottle should help the tannins soften. Readers need to be patient,…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Gazin has a lively, generous bouquet of vivacious wild strawberry, boysenberry and hints of tobacco. The aromatics are well delineated and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, offering seductive black fruit mixed with black pepper, truffle and clove. There is so much finesse toward the finish that it is approachable now,…

Cellar Favorite: 2020 Château d’Yquem (Jun 2023)

The 2020 Yquem, a blend of 75% Semillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc, cropped at a measly 10hl/ha, has a very sensual bouquet. It’s pretty mercurial as it unfolds in the glass, with scents of freshly sliced white peaches, almonds and pineapple. The oak is beautifully integrated, and allowing it further time, there are additional scents…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Léoville-Barton is a wine of notable intensity, but all of that power is directed inward. Tightly coiled and vibrant, the Léoville-Barton is going to need time to be ready, but that is to be expected. There is terrific energy here, if not the volume of the preceding three vintages. That’s not a problem.

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Léoville-Barton was picked from 27 September until 7 October, matured in 60% new oak. The alcohol is 13.12%. It has a clean and pure bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, cedar and hints of shucked oyster shell: focused and very well delineated, classic in style. The palate has a smooth and cohesive entry, very well-knit…