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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Lafite Rothschild put in a strange showing at the previous horizontal just a few weeks earlier. This bottle is much better. It has a deep color with little ageing on the rim. On the nose there is ample fruit, blackberry and bilberry with notes of pencil lead and sage, but overall there is…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Full ruby-red with a purple tinge. Crushed cassis, blackberry, violet, cedar and graphite on the very fresh, complex nose. Juicy, spicy and penetrating, with lovely harmonious acids providing great clarity and cut to the black fruit and graphite flavors. Still youthfully closed and very mineral. Finishes pure and extremely long, with very fine tannins. This…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Romanée-Conti and Montrachet (Feb 2015)

Even at 14 years of age, the 2001 remains virile and imposing, which is quite rare as Romanée-Conti is so often an elusive, more sensual wine. The 2001, on the other hand, is a wine of transparency and energy, two of the signatures of the 2001s here, yet the aromas and flavors remain a bit…

2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

($1; 375) Medium-deep red. Utterly distinctive nose combines plum, redcurrant, beefsteak tomato, underbrush and grilled vegetables. Wonderfully silky and concentrated, without any rough edges. And yet this thick wine possesses terrific verve, purity and power. Expands inexorably in the middle palate and offers extraordinary building length on the aftertaste. The complex earthy/veggie element turns to…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Beychevelle repeats its performance from a blind tasting in London earlier in 2018. It has an old-school bouquet of dusky black fruit, morels and that light seawater note. The palate is medium-bodied with quite sharp tannin and rustic in style, featuring leathery red fruit and iron ore, though as I noted before, it…

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1985 Palmer is another vintage that I have not met for a little while. This is clearly a step up from the 1982 on the nose, even if not a match for the 1983. This blossoms in the glass with brambly red fruit, thyme, rose petals and touches of Earl Grey tea. The palate…