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2014 and 2013 Northern Rhône: Great Wines If You Can Find Them (Mar 2016)

Vivid purple. Deep-pitched, smoke- and spice-accented aromas of blueberry and cherry compote, violet and incense take on a hint of olive. Lush and expansive, offering palate-staining black and blue fruit liqueur and spicecake flavors sharpened by a bright mineral element. Becomes sweeter and deeper with air and finishes extremely long, with velvety tannins and lingering…

Northern Rhône: Solid ’14 Reds and Outstanding ’15 Whites (Jul 2017)

Glass-staining ruby. Pungent, spice- and mineral-accented aromas of ripe dark berries, smoky bacon, candied licorice, violet and Moroccan spices. Juicy and densely packed on the palate, offering impressively concentrated black and blue fruit and floral pastille flavors sharpened by a hint of peppery spices. Becomes sweeter and more lively as it opens up, picking up…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2012 Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is fully mature on the nose, slightly earthy with light animal fur aromas. Fine lift. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm structure, impressive transparency and a slightly short, tart finish. But there is a breeziness to this Clos de Vougeot that is very seductive. Tasted…

Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1985-2016 (Jun 2019)

(13.1% alcohol; 24 h/h; 9/22 harvest): Full medium red. Very rich, ripe aromas of dark cherry, plum and mocha, complicated by licorice and mint and a spiciness that builds with air; remains just this side of roasted. Displays terrific density and a captivating subtle sweetness on entry, then thick, rich and classically dry in the…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

Brilliant ruby-red color. Musky, superrich, slightly roasted aromas of black raspberry, mint and tropical dark chocolate. Hugely sweet and creamy in the mouth, but with sound acidity and a vineyard-typical minty element giving shape and lift to the chewy cherry and raspberry fruit flavors. This very deep Clos Vougeot finishes with big but late-arriving tannins…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has an attractive sea cave/oyster shell nose that opens nicely with aeration; very well defined, with plenty of intense black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, quite “solid” and maybe rather brutish at the moment, though it should soften with time.