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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Inky purple. Fresh, expressive aromas of dark plum, blackberry and roasted coffee bean. The palate offers similar black fruit flavors complicated by inky and cedary nuances. Finishes fresh and refined; not yet particularly complex but admirably restrained. Very smooth and well made but I found its 14.5% alcohol a bit tiring. (Michel Gracia’s Les Angelots…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 55/45 blend of cabernet franc and merlot; cropped at 27 hectoliters per hectare; ph 3.56; 14.5% alcohol; 100% new oak) Bright, saturated ruby-red. Very cabernet franc- and limestone-driven on the nose, offering enticing scents of red berries, cocoa, spicy minerals and violet. Impressively intense flavors of red and dark berries are complicated by bitter…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Ausone has a sumptuous bouquet with pure blackberry, raspberry, rose petal and orange blossom aromas. The wine is beautifully defined blossoms with aeration. It becomes very liquorice and menthol-like after 10 minutes’ aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. It is not a powerful 2009 and it feels sleek and quite tensile….

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright ruby-red. Serious medicinal reserve to the aromas of iron, violet and coconutty oak. A real mineral bath on the palate, with outstanding concentration and energy to the flavors of dark berries and flowers. Hiding more than it’s showing today and destined for three or four decades of improvement in bottle. The remarkably palate-staining finish…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Inky purple. Pretty aromas of ripe black cherry, cassis and truffle. Then dense and almost massive on the palate, with rich flavors of black plum, cassis and cocoa coating the palate. My enthusiasm was muted by a mouth-puckering tannic astringency. This big, full-bodied Pomerol might yet come around, but I doubt it will ever be…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

I once described the 2009 Le Gay as monumental and I have no reason to alter that view under these blind conditions. It has a tightly wound bouquet with blackberry, truffle, forest floor and light tobacco scents that gather momentum in the glass. Captivating. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very well poised with…