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2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(frost cut production by 30% in 2016): Pale yellow. The closest of these premier crus to exotic on the nose, offering scents of ripe peach, hazelnut and honey. Compellingly rich and sweet on the palate, but with its sucrosité leavened by a distinctly sappy quality. As dense and broad as this wine is, it also…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Musky, very ripe but subdued aromas of apricot, mirabelle, spices and marzipan. Full, ripe and sweet, but with strong balancing orange-juice acidity. A rather powerful but youthfully disjointed village wine with a firm, dry finish.

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Very pale, bright, green-tinged yellow. High-pitched aromas of pineapple, peach pit and redcurrant are lively and pure. Silky, fine-grained and sweet, with harmonious acidity and penetrating chalky minerality giving the fresh orchard fruit flavors terrific precision. At once seamless and gripping, this impeccably balanced wine finishes with a subtle whiplash of flavor that leaves the…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has an aromatic bouquet of citrus fruit and mineral aromas infused with yellow flowers, along with beautifully integrated oak. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Perhaps it needs just a tad more energy and tension on the finish, but it is a class act…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(bottled eight days before my visit): Very pure aromas of peach, lemon cream and spices lifted by a floral topnote. More tightly wound than the Combettes but with terrific lemony cut giving the middle palate a sharply chiseled, airy feel. Very pure and clean on the back end, with brisk acidity extending the perfumed, floral…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2009 Calon Ségur offers powerful black fruit, melted road tar, tobacco and pencil shaving scents, here with a touch of wild mint that surfaces after 15-20 minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly grainy texture. This solid Saint-Estèphe is shaking off the baby fat of that vintage and is more reserved than the…