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The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(60% Mazoyères and 40% Charmes, combined when the wine goes into barrel): Bright medium red. Brambly aromas of redcurrant, minerals and dried flowers. Tighter in the mouth than the premier crus here, showing less charm and early sweetness but noteworthy intensity and a firm shape. More minerals, dried flowers and earth than primary fruit. Charmes…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru was picked on September 12, four days prior to the Clos-de-Bèze. It offers more complexity and mineralité on the nose by comparison, featuring blackberry, raspberry and briar scents; rose petal and light bergamot notes emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet tannins on the entry. Quite sinewy for…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2003 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was showing well until around five years ago, but I wonder, based on this ex-cellar bottle, tasted blind at the château, if it is on a slippery slope? Glossy on the nose, obviously very ripe with a little more VA than previous examples, I just find it monotonous compared…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Pichon-Lalande was showing well until around five years ago, but I wonder, based on this ex-cellar bottle, tasted blind at the château, if it is on a slippery slope? Glossy on the nose, obviously very ripe with a little more VA than previous examples. I just find it monotonous compared to the wondrous…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 2003 Pichon-Lalande is a decent if not exceptional wine. I found it horrendously inconsistent just after bottling, swinging from excessively ripe to green within the space of two bottles; it has since settled down. The nose of black currant and crème de cassis is a little smudged but offers satisfying purity and not too…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good deep red. Flamboyantly expressive aromas of raspberry, currant, earth, smoked meat, chocolate and pepper. Fat, full and voluptuous yet somehow light on its feet. This has a texture of liquid velvet. Wonderfully opulent wine with considerable inner-palate flavor complexity: raspberry, game, leather, mocha and chocolate. Finishes with very fine-grained tannins that coat the entire…